Tag Archives: Margheria

Azelia makes a good margheria in 2011

DSC046192011 Azelia, Margheria

Transparent and lightly blood-orange colour with tints of orange-brown.

Very balsamically opulent and dense, but fresh nose with honey, notes of tar, tobacco, black pepper and sherry notes as well as some hours later; a subtle pretty perfume that is not so much about red flowers. Fine complexity lifted by skilful oak-treatment.

On the palate, distinct tar, obvious dry liquorice-root, some glycerin, fresh ginger, porto raisins, figs, notes of tar, chewing-tobacco. The blue- and black fruit is overly sweet. Unfortunately, texture is not great. In fact, tannins are somewhat edgy, grainy from oak and not ripe. Balance is good, but most importantly, the acidity is crisp (if given two hours of decanting that is) and vivid wrapping dry honey and metallic minerals as well as being impressively clean. It is concentrated and pliant with a slender body. The finish is quite long, but dry and currently it adds an unpleasant bleach coffee tone. This might be an effect of oak.

This wine is very forward, racy and generous, but its texture is under-performing by being overly fleshy and coarse and it is a little butterfingered we are afraid. Even so, it is somewhat saved by its clean and fresh acidity, enjoyable perfume and its overall complexity. Several 2011s are better altogether than anticipated and this is still one of them, but barely. It is drinkable now, but wait until 2017 to hopefully let the tannins ripen and settle much more.

91p/100