Tag Archives: Cornas

A wide-ranging blind tasting back in november 2015

We had a blind taste of a wide range of wines an evening in back in November and here is the result. Great tenderloin, chanterelles, risotto and pecorino accompanied these wines then. Two bottles form us each and a half bottle.

1993 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano riserva, Carpineto

The first wine is brought to the table by Frederik and it obviously has some age. Andreas has a hard time locating its origins and this is hard since the wine is from a region we haven’t payed any attention to and it contains 10% merlot, 20% canaiolo and the rest sangiovese grosso. It is a good wine that we hadn’t tested before with obvious age.

Sir Galahad:

Very fine matured nose of butter-fried chanterelles, some vanilla cain, some pencil led, vinaigrette, madeira, eucalyptus and a stylish, quite complex and fresh saline perfume. A complex and stylish nose.

Saline coated darker fruit; plums and black cherries, mush rooms, cedar oak, pepper and mush rooms are obvious on the palate. It is generous, rich and voluptuous. Very good, crisp and balsamic acidity. The texture is coarse and tannins are unfortunately harsh and edgy which is a true disappointment in an otherwise good vino nobile from Montepulciano with some age, the neighbour wine region to Montalcino in Tuscany.

87p/100

Andreas:

Some dense ripe fruit, hints of oak and saltiness opens the nose but there is also a pleasant creaminess.

Dark ripe fruit with blueberries and boysenberries but also under vegetation and mushrooms enter the scene on the palate where we also find a rather laid back but present acidity.

The finish is surprisingly short but has some nice dried fruit.

91p/100

2008 Chambolle-Musigny “Les Charmes”, Bertheau

The second wine is very fragrant and Andreas is the one bringing it to the table. Frederik is quickly and only based on the nose  in chambolle-musigny, but not sure what producer and is not nailing the vintage. After leaving the area for a few seconds after sipping a few more times, Andreas helps out just a little by saying that the first guess was not bad. It proves to be a 1er cru from our hero, Francois Bertheau in chambolle.

Sir Galahad:

Distinct ginger in here as well as fresh orange-peel, some curry and a lovely, seductive perfume of flowers with feminine characteristics that is enchanting and elegant. On the palate it is very generous, rich in ripe, red fruit; dominated by wild strawberries, ginger, blood orange and some anise. Very crisp and fresh acidity. Texture is velvety but with ripe and precise, but quite dense tannins. Its i very elegant, persistently generous and all about finess.

92+p/100

Andreas:

Mineral infused fresh nose with lots of red fruit and hints of floral notes. There are also orange peel, ginger, roses and hints of citric notes.

Fantastic acidity with razor sharp precision and some citric notes that are otherwise mainly found in white wine like Chenin Blanc. The red fruit is both fresh and slightly sweet.

The wine has an amazing precision and elegance but lacks some complexity and length.

93p/100

 

2014 Cheverny rouge “La Gravotte”, Clos du Tue-Boeuff

The 3rd wine is prepared by Andreas. Frederik can only pinpoint it to be from a natural wine producer and guesses on Loire and is sure it is very young, but has no clue of the producer. It turns out to be a producer that Andreas has visited and well known to the best restaurants in Copenhagen.

Sir Galahad:

The nose offers some crushed stone, but dominated by yeast boosting the aromas which is typical in trendy natural wines that is on the list at famous restaurant Noma. Fruit is a little sweet, but good balance, full-bodied and fresh with cool, fresh acidity. A little too much yiest for my taste, somewhat harsh tannins and it lacks complexity for a top wine.

88p/100

Andreas:

An abundance of rather sweet berries jump out of the glass together with notes of menthol. The palate is also dominated by fresh juicy red berries with a slightly sourish tone on the acidity. This is a very fruit driven, forward and generous wine but unfortunately it is too simplistic and lacks elegance for at top score.

88p/100

 

2012 Cornas “Renaissance”, Auguste Clape

Frederik brings this great wine of the best producer in Cornas to the tasting and Andreas is not familiar with Cornas before, but he is quite quickly in the Rhône dale ruling out Cote Rotie and the northern part based on the terroir.

Sir Galahad:

Distinct crushed, very forward and vibrating, typical granite stone followed by dried herbs, eucalyptus, earthy minerals, mush rooms, synthetic glue, and black tea. It appears to be holding back its authentic and mysterious traits at this point, but it is obvious that the complexity is lurking within if you spend some time with it like we did. On the palate, it is obviously too young yet, but very deep dark fruit, undervegetation, black tea and typical granite stone. Plenty of fresh, bitter and energetic acidity. Texture is a little fleshy, very thick and solid, but while tannins are not harsh at all, they are currently a little dry and grainy.

Obviously, this warm vintage rendered a very forward, dense and solid wine. It is very deep and quite powerful, but not heavy. It is a promising little brother wine in Auguste Clape’s cornas range. It obviously needs much more time, but a very forward and classic wine from Cornas of the defining master.

92-93p/100

Andreas:

Dense dark fruit with ripe boysenberries, blueberries and some fresh violet. There are also some wood glue, oil paint and some earthy notes.

The taste is also dense and deep but also has an amazingly energetic acidity which ensures that the wine never get heavy. There are crushed stone and dark minerals but also some slight pepper notes on the taste. Sometimes there is a slight bitterness that is pushed down by some slight sweetness.

A wine that combines dense and generous fruit with minerals and energy. Impressive effort.

93p/100

2010 Brunello di Montalcino, Campogiovanni

Frederik adds this to the bunch and Andreas guesses correctly that it is a brunello and correct vintage but not the producer.

Andreas:

An abundance of rather sweet berries jump out of the glass together with notes of menthol.

The palate is also dominated by fresh juicy red berries with a slightly sourish tone on the acidity.

This is a very fruit driven, forward and generous wine but unfortunately it is too simplistic and lacks elegance for at top score.

88p/100

Sir Galahad:

Distinct notes of asphalt, rubber boots and balsamic herbs on the nose.

Quite fullbodied wine with very dark fruit, dry herbs, gravel. Fine acidity and persistent but a little dry finish, sandy texture and without finesse.

87p/100

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The certainly wide tasting line-up

Tasting of Northern Rhone 2010 and Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2010 and 2006

I recently attended a dinner where the wine theme was Rhone and we tasted wines from both northern Rhone and Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Most of the wines where from 2010, which is considered to be a fantastic, but still very young vintage. The youthfulness was also very apparent in the tasting and we also felt that some of the wines had gone into a tunnel phase.

Below are tasting notes and some basic information about some of the producers.

Rhone wines 2010

2010 E. Guigal St. Joseph Lieu-Dit St. Joseph Rouge

The Guigal family have had an enormous influence on the development in the region. They do both Estate bottling and act as negotiant, and today they produce wines from both Northern and Southern Rhone.

Rather sweet and soft fruit combined with slight vanilla notes. Careful but rather precise acidity on the palate where we again find vanilla and the soft fruit but also some white pepper and oranges. Tannins are very velvety and of good quality, though there is a hint of oak bitterness in the finish.

Pleasant and likable wine but rather one dimensional and simple.

86p/100

2010 Domaine Yves Cuilleron St. Joseph Les Serines

Domaine Yves Cuilleron has vineyards in St. Joseph, Condrieu, Côte Rôtie, Cornas and St. Péray. They produce wines in a rather modern style but are increasingly careful with oak and today use less than 20% of new oak.

The nose is dense with fruit notes, herbs and hints of oil paint. Still it manages to keep an energetic and fresh expression.

The acidity is amazing but a bit dominant at the moment. The balance should improve greatly with time. There is mainly dark fruit in the beginning but then some red fruit comes through, together with minerals and a hint of marzipan.

The wine has fantastic precision and should develop beautifully with time.

92p/100

2010 Domaine du Tunnel (Stéphane Robert) Cornas Vin Noir

The style of Domaine du Tunnel i classical/traditional and they avoid new oak barrels to avoid masking the wine. In their Cornas Vin Noir the grapes are from 100 year old vines.

Dense dark fruit, orange peel, spices and some under vegetation greets us in this rather forward nose.

The palate opens up with almost sourish red fruit together with softer blueberries. boysenberries and some black pepper in the background. Tannins are very present but of good quality and never gets dry.

Great nose but the palate gets a bit heavy and has a slight bitterness. This wine needs much more time to reach the peak but the potential is good.

91p/100

2010 Domaine du Colombier Hermitage

This wine is made of grapes from three different lieux-dits in Hermitage. Before 1991 the grapes from these vineyards where sold to negotiants. They ferment the grapes in whole clusters and the wine has been aged in french oak barrels, where approximately 30% are new.

A compact nose with an abundance of oil paint and soft dark fruit from blueberries, boysenberries and a hint of violet. Despite the masculine expression the nose manages keep a freshness.

The palate has a slightly sweet expression but this is complemented well with an energetic acidity. There are lots of berries, both red and dark but unfortunately also oak notes that masks the fruit and makes the wine slightly heavy. The tannins are clearly also affected by the oak treatment.

The wine has a fantastic nose but gets heavy on the palate and you need a break between each sip.

91p/100

2006 Domaine du Pégaü Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Réservée

Domaine du Pegau produces Châteauneuf-du-Pape wine in classical style with no destemming or new wood. The red wines are dominated by the Grenache grape.

Very ripe fruit, mainly plums and apricot, but also a slightly oxidized expression and some tobacco and violet. Initially the wine has some barnyard notes but these quickly disappear.

The palate has sweet red berries, some ginger and sandy tannins. Acidity is very careful and soft but still present.

For a wine showing this amount of ripe fruit and with a rather low acidity it manages to stay surprisingly fresh.

90p/100

2010 Domaine Chante Cigale Châteauneuf-du-Pape Vieilles Vignes

Domaine Chante Cigale represent a more modern style of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. The vines used for this wine are at least 80 years old and the wine has been aged in both stainless steel tanks and new French oak barrels.

An abundance of dense fruit, some orange peel, tea, herbs but also some green notes make up the nose. The palate has a powerful expression with some clear alcohol notes. Again there is a green touch to the wine and there is some black pepper, boysenberries and a rather fresh acidity. The finish unfortunately gets rather bitter, probably from oak.

86p/100

A rich, mineral-packed Cornas from Courbis

The domaine Courbis is headed by the brothers Laurent and Dominique. They harvest manually, employ 100% de-stemming of the grapes by hand and use a lot of new oak barrels for malo and aging.  The vineyard La Sabarotte is steep and the soil in Cornas has a very thin top layer and the lower layers are dominated by decomposed granite but there is about 20% chalky clay too on a solid granite bed. The soil is very poor of nutrients, so the roots needs to dig hard here. Vines are planted primarily in 1947.

2011 La Sabarotte, Cornas Domaine Courbis

Color: Very dark deep purple middle and scarlet, light red purple edges.
Nose: Some oak notes. Distinct gravel, shale, dry plum, figs, tiny notes of rosemary, olives, eucalyptus, fresh forest breeze and loads of deep, complex minerals. Not a big nose, but archetypical and interesting. It really needs a lot of airing to show itself now.
Taste: A very concentrated wine with medium structure, body and very dense but with already soft, very approachable tannins. Grape juice, fennel, fresh, opulent black fruit with some depth, gravel, nutmeg and loads of complex minerals and gravel. Some toasty notes from oak, but nothing disturbing so obviously the brothers are very skilled with oak. It is well balanced, rich and quite persistent, but lacks grip and backbone in the end.

Impressive concentration, quit complex and balance wine indeed, but now the nose is more interesting than the taste which lacks backbone and even though the oak is skillfully used, we lack elegance now. Costs about €50.

91-92p/100