Tag Archives: Bordeaux

A neutral terroir-focused 2012 Bordeaux that impresses

We don’t focus on wines of Bordeaux, but this producer, Château Le Puy, is interesting and caught our attention when it was offered recently at a wine bar (l’Enoteca) in Malmö, Sweden.

This producer works dynamically and uses no sulphur or pesticides and have never done so. They use no new wood at all as they want real terroir in their wines and they conduct extraction by the ultra traditional submerged caps method. Wow, we are hooked. A blend of 85% merlot, 1% carmènére and the rest cabernet sauvignon.

Scissored from the producer’s website:

“To be a winemaker you need to be observant, curious, imaginative, hard-working, thick-skinned, meticulous, passionate about nature and about life and filled with respect for your fellow man. A winemaker must be artistic in his methods, bold in his thinking, enthusiastic yet reflective, passionate yet patient, pragmatic yet imaginative, efficient yet generous. Being a winemaker is about communicating directly with wine lovers, showing them the very best of yourself through the medium of wine. ” – Jean-Pierre Amoreau

Yes, this might be one of the best description of the art of making wine, but how does the wine taste?..

dsc_0168

2012 Château Le Puy “Emilien”

Distinct nose of tidy barnyard, undervegetation, horse back, muddy gravel, dried raisins and figs. The typical pen lead, gravel, undervegetation, black olives and black currants wrapped in metallic and saline minerals. Texture is dense and just a little hefty now with tannins that need more time still. Otherwise, very crisp and balanced already. A rich, well structured wine with a lot of honest character (true terroir) and dry sensation in the persistent finish. (tasted 5/8-2016)

89-90p/100

A powerful, but yet pure and fresh Margaux

The Château Rauzan-Ségla is well known to all Bordeaux drinkers and the estate was established in 1763. However, in 1994 the current owners, the Wertheimer brothers, who also owns Coco Chanel, bought it and hired the scotsman John Kolasa to manage the wine making. John had previously been working at Château Latour and when he arrived to the estate, he planted more merlot and put a lot of focus on the vineyards; especially low-yields and meticulous selection of grapes.

The blend for this cuvée was 62% Cabernet Sauvignon, 38% Merlot and 2% Petit Verdot and yields was extremely low this year in Bordeaux. 60% new oak is used to raise this wine for 18 months.

2011 Chateau Rauzan-Ségla, Margaux

The colour is very dark purple-red middle with very intense crimson red light edges.
After one hour scents of pencil lead, graphite, barn, cassis, fresh herbs, shale and saline mushrooms emerges from the glass. A quite deep, complex and fresh nose pushed by skillful use of oak.
This wine offers very pure, cool and fresh black fruit. The palate offers distinct cassis, dusty gravel, olives, lead pencil, grape-peel and loads of minerals. It offers high concentration and is full bodied with chewy and grainy, but currently a little coarse and heavy tannins. It is powerful, fleshy and very persistent too with very good balance. Acidity is very balsamic, fresh and energetic in this yet very young wine.

A very balanced, fresh and very persistent wine in this vintage indeed. It is drinkable now, but open it in 2019 to let the tannins settle more.


92-93p/100

French complex personality from Grave, Bordeaux

We are very in to the religion of having only one grape of the type that is so impressionable and delicately, affected by its origin – its terroir, that it sometime gets hard to convince us to to taste a blended one with multiple grapes building that wine. 🙂

Bordeaux, by tradition are skilled on the art of blending grapes; in this case they blend as much as 52% merlot and the rest is cabernet sauvignon for structure and backbone. Thus a lot of the charmy, fruity and sappy character is added from the merlot that grows in clayey soil in Pessac-Léognan, Graves. They de-stem absolutely 100%, i.e. removing each grape by hand which is very time-consuming. The wine ages for 18 months in french oak barrels. Bernard Magrez is the current owner of the Château Pape Clement that dates back to 1305.

The vintage 2006 was troublesome, with uneven weather that was quite hot in summer until harvest in September were it turned soggy and caused a lot of rot and grapes did not reach full ripeness in many places. The vintage in general is more tannic, a little off-balance and fruit may not be as ripe as a classic year like 2005, but Graves suffered less than many other areas.

2006 Château Pape-Clément

Colour: Very dark ruby red, crimson-red edges.
Nose: Smoke, dusty gravel, obvious stable, lead pencil, distinct shale, earth, forest floor and minerals. A complex nose, quite deep really that is driven by the unique terroir of Graves.
Taste: The mid palate offers very dark, fresh, sappy and distinct black- and blue mineral-fruit, hints of coffee, grape juice, broth, shale, new wedged grass, smoked wood and saline mushrooms. Acidity impresses with its very balsamic and fresh quality. Structure is full-bodied, it is powerful and persistence is good. Texture is coarse sandy and tannins are thick and offers chewy, not yet polished tannins but of good quality.

This wine needs plenty of airing, about 3-4 hours and until then it is peevish, quite flat and harsh. Then in a decanter, suddenly and surprisingly, everything changes and the wine emerges as complex and offers deep fruit and flavours from the terroir of Graves, it is rich and has some elegance. Open 2015-2030.

94p/100