It is not often we drink wines from Beaujolais, but at a blind tasting recently a bottle of Jean Foillards Morgon Cote du Py Cuvee 3.14 put a smile on our faces. Therefore we could not resist buying a few bottles of their latest vintage of Morgon Côte du Py when we got the chance. When reading the notes, keep in mind that the 2009 vintage is in general a safer bet than 2012.
Jean Foillard is a legend in natural wine making in Beaujolais and is often grouped together in the “Gang of Four” together with Marcel Lapierre, Guy Breton and Jean-Paul Thévenet. His wine making methods include late harvest, natural yeast, no filtering and minimal or no sulfur dioxide. This results in honest and transparent wines.
Notes from the tastings
The nose is very direct with an abundance of fresh and quite sweet raspberries, crisp acidic notes, minerals and hints of stable in the background. This is an intriguing and generous nose. In the mouth we are washed over with juicy and very cool raspberries, but also hints of grape and a very fresh, energetic and direct acidity. The finish is not very long but very vibrant and leaving you wanting more of this wine.
We became very happy when having a sip of this wine. We are not talking about the most complex wine, but it is seductive, energetic and fresh. The most impressive here is the level of purity of the fruit. We could have finished several bottles of this wine and the best recommendation is to drink and enjoy, instead of taking notes.
The wine has a very flirtatious nose with fresh, sweet red fruit and quite good depth. There are minerals, some nail varnish, a hint of ripe banana and loads of raspberries and cherries. It is hard not to be seduced immediately but it is more a flirt than the beginning of a long lasting relationship.
In the mouth the fruit gets more ripe, the cherries take a more dominant position and there are hints of bitter almond. The acidity is more harsh than fresh and crisp.
When the sharpness has disappeared we are left with a quite sweet ending.
I was not expecting miracles from this wine, but I was hoping for something more. The main drawback is the lack of balance and crispness in the taste. The wine could develop with time, so I will save the other bottle a few years.
It is not a surprise that we have a difference in quality between these wines, but it was larger than expected. The Cuvee 3.14 is several steps up and has balance and energy which cannot be matched in the basic Morgon Côte du Py. And an important warning has to be made: If you do not like raspberries these wines should be avoided!!!