Tag Archives: Aux Malconsorts

2012 Cathiard impresses again in Aux Malconsorts

 

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We simply love the precision and quality that Sébastien and his father Sylwain succeeds to deliver in every vintage regardless of how difficult it may be.

2012 Vosne-Romanée 1er cru Aux Malconsorts, Sylwain Cathiard

The classic popcorn, distinct orange-peel, Vosne spices, ginger and intense violets and subtle roses. The clean bluish-red and creamy fruit is wrapped in layers of vibrating minerals and orange-peel. It is more forward, denser and opulent than usual, but still with that remarkable precision and finesse as always.  A very generous, rich and persistent wine that still should be kept for a few years more to the let the thick tannins ripen even more. (Tasted 5/8-2016)

94p/100

A 2009 Aux Malconsorts from the expert

The 2009 vintage is not classic, it is sexy if you ask the french. The wines are usually forward, big and with baby fat.

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2009 Vosne-Romanée 1er cru “Aux Malconsorts”, Sylwain Cathiard

Colour is translucent, dark red purple with light orange-pink edges.

As expected. A quite forward nose that initially emerges with a striking, stylish flirty perfume, loads of Vosne xmas-style spices, fresh cut ginger, some typical clove, cardamon.

Acidity is energetic and it is fresh, but where is the fruit? In a warmer than usual vintage there should be plenty of sweet fruit. Strange. However, the wine is full bodied and totally feather light-weighted as expected which is the hallmark of this skilled producer and texture may not be perfect in here, but fine grained and steers the wine gracefully to a slightly bitter end. It is super fresh, bolder than usual and pliant, but will the fruit get to the surface? Maybe it just needs much more time. (tasted 16/5-2016)

92-p/100

 

2006 Aux Malconsorts – The leader now has one competitor

Aux Malconsorts is the premier cru vineyard in one of the most holy of places in Burgundy for wine lovers; Vosne-Romanée. The vineyard borders La Tâche in the north and has seen a true rise in quality especially due to the exceptional handcraft by Sylvain Cathiard in more than a decade. However, since 2005 they are up for competition here as Domaine de Montille and Dujac bought and split the owning of Thomas-Molliard’s sellout. We have been very impressed with de Montille’s wines before, especially the Volnay Tallepieds.

This tasting may not be truly fair, since the Malconsorts from Domaine de Montille this time is their very special cuvée from a mystic part of this vineyard that appears to be cut straight out of La Tâche really. However, as Étienne de Montille clearly has stated, it has never been part of La Tâche, but he thinks it is special enough for making a special bottling named after his mother.

Cathiard is an obvious opponent or better put, our reference since up till this tasting, they have been our first choice in this vineyard period after tasting several of the other producers here. Sébastien Cathiard has taken over from the 2011 vintage after his father Sylvain and their section is more up hill in the middle. You can read more about the vineyard and inspect their different sections here in Steen Öhman’s article.

 
 

2006 1er cru Malconsorts, Sylvain Cathiard

This was reviewed about a year ago here, but primarily for providing a benchmark as well as supplying a fresh note now a second review is done here a year later.

Sir Galahad:

Colour is translucent, but dark red-purple-orange with light-orange edges.

After more than three hours of decanting, the nose emerges with distinct wood glue, orange-peel, underbrush, some Asian spices and somewhat burnt herbs. And after hours of additional airing, finally the typical x-mas spices arrives to scene together with a very delicate and reticent, but fresh inner-perfume of fresh flowers.

The palate offers very small, pure and sweet mix of blue- and red berries, white pepper, clove, notes of dry fennel, pastry as well as distinct delicate and crystalline minerals. It has very silky texture from tannins that still spurs the tongue a little and its body is not as slim and light-weighted as the nose suggested as last time, rather somewhat meaty and generously mouth filling at least compared to its opponent this time.

Cathiard’s Malconsorts offers remarkably pure aromas and great balance and as a year ago, the only tiny remark is the somewhat lack of structure in this less favourable vintage for tannins, which is not improved by removing stems as they always do in accordance with the principles setup by Henri Jayer.

93+p/100

 

Andreas:

Initially the nose is quite soft, creamy and with concentrated red fruit. After some more time the nose shows herbal notes, wood glue, blueberries and other dark berries. The nose is quite deep and dense. After 2-3 hours the nose closed down and never returned to the initial levels.

On the palate the acidity takes initiative and is very present and direct, while the fruit is more careful but aligned with the nose. The wine is quite mineral and spicy in the taste. Tannins are soft but a bit sandy. The finish is long and has a slight hint of bitterness.

As expected with Cathiard this is a fantastic wine that is quite masculine and has a dense and complex nose.

93-94p/100

 

2006 1er cru Aux Malconsorts “Christiane”, Domaine de Montille

Sir Galahad:

Colour is translucent, almost transparently blood red but still red purple with light-orange edges. They add stems, so the colour is lighter than the Cathiard.

After some hours of decanting, the nose is still reticent and emerges with glue, exotic spices, new baked brioche, bright floral notes and then after a lot of swirling in the glass; a subtle very complex perfume as well as some deep, fresh minerals appears in all its fragrant grace.

On the palate there is orange-peel, delicate sea shell minerals, clove and deep fruit as well as hints of blood orange and cherries. Texture is silky and creamy with really good tannins. Acidity is crisp and vivid but pleasantly settled. Concentration is great and it has just enough structure to reach to a little bitter but persistent and pure finish.

Even though this wine is reticent and analytic, it is very deep and balanced with a remarkable precision but also generous, fresh and really elegant.

95p/100

Andreas:

The nose starts quite careful and with bright red fruit where raspberries dominate. There are also quite floral notes, soft and fresh spices and mineral tones. Very elegant and pleasant nose with layers of fruit. The nose evolved during the hours we had the wine in a decanter.

Mouthwatering fresh raspberries, clear notes of mineral and again some fresh spices. Very energetic palate. Tannins are extremely silky but definitely present.

This wine is well balanced with an energetic acidity, fresh fruit and nice tannins. Very elegant and with good potential.

95p/100

Summary

Clearly, in the 2006 vintage that lacks ripe and authoritative tannins for structure and grip, both wines are somewhat analytic still, but the Christiane wins today by offering just a little more depth and precision. You should most likely forget them both for another 15 years is my guess. It will be very interesting to follow these two champions from now on in the Malconsorts. As always, competition pushes quality further.

 

The master in Malconsorts, Burgundy

Sylvain Cathiard has been a rising star in Burgundy for some years now and he appears to be applying a lot of the quality principles set up by the legendary Henri Jayer like 100% de-stemming, no use of weed-killers/chemicals in the vineyard and hard pruning for low controlled yields for out most quality. In addition, Sylvain and his son Sébastien employs cold soaking (another one of Jayer’s methods) with daily rémontage in order to enhance colour and aromas without extracting tannins. He is also known for having a very hands-off approach in the cellar and being very skillful with a significantly high level of new oak that amazingly only emphasizes and conveys the unique terroir in a very good way.

After gentle crushing of the grapes, a seven-day long cold soaking, 16-22 days of maceration depending on vintage and alcoholic fermentation, the grape juice is moved into barrels for the malo on its lees and sediments. Then it is aged in the same barrel for 18 months. Even though their grand cru Romanée-Saint-Vivant is great, the estates pride is their Aux Malconsorts and not only does it border the famous La Tâche, it cost much less and Cathiard’s wine from this famous premier cru is considered the best by several critics including Allen Meadows and Clive Coates.

“There is no one hotter in Burgundy these days than Sylvain Cathiard.” — Allen Meadows, BURGHOUND
“a touch of genius in the winemaking” — Clive Coates MW

2006 was a troublesome cool year that has proven to be better than first anticipated. In general it lacks a little concentration and structure. Moreover, the fruit may be unripe, patchy as well as the tannins. However, in Vosne-Romanée you can find good wines and this was also a wine-maker’s year.

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Cathiard, Aux Malconsorts 2006

The colour is purple red with pink and transparent edges.

The nose starts off with Vosne spices, preserved raspberries, orange-peel, some cherry notes and fine tuned complex minerals. After a few hours, there are some high notes of lovely, quite seductive red flowers, violets and delicate stylish perfumes emerging.

On the palate there is a lot of complex, quite deep layers of fresh, cool and exceptionally pure red fruit and in the foreground. A vast variety of red current, wild strawberries, rowan berries and lingonberries. In the back ground there are some anise and clove, but it is dominated by loads of delicate minerals and orange-peel. Even though, as much as scarily 100% new oak is used to produce this wine it is skillfully integrated and the territorial aromas slips through. The vintage and 100% de-stemming does not render enough tannins, so oak tannins are really needed here. A very (as always) round, smooth and fantastically well balanced wine.

Purity, elegance and balance are the obvious key words for the overall impression of this great wine. As always we are impressed with the vast and complex nose and the purity in Cathiard’s wines. It is a feather-light wine and our only remarks are that this vintage lacks some structure and some grip.

94p/100

Burgundy-Trip 2012: Hudelot-Noëllat – Striking elegance from a producer still on the rise

Just two days prior to our flight to Burgundy in November this year, I still hadn’t received any answer to my emails to a domaine I really wanted to visit. I decided to make a phone call even though I unfortunately don’t speak French and Charles van Canneyt at the domaine Hudelot-Noëllat answered. Immediately, Charles came across as a very positive, sympathetic man and he said that he had read my mail, but just had forgot to answer. It was no problem at all to meet up, so happily we could fit him in to our schedule on a Monday the 12th. When we arrived, a happy Charles opened the door with tasting glasses and a wine pipette. As we started walking to the cellar, Charles mentions that he likes Sweden, especially Stockholm. When we ask him if there is any particular reason, he smiles and reveals that he has had a Swedish girl friend. Stockholm is beautiful with all the waters, he says.

The domaine Hudelot-Noëllat was established in 1964 by the marriage of Alain Hudelot and Odile Noëllat. However, since completing his enology studies in Dijon in 2008, the 24-year-old Charles is heading the estate helped by the experienced wine maker Vincent Meunier who has been around here since 2005. The cellar is immaculate and impressively clean. Charles explains that they put much effort into cleaning the barrels after bottling. When I ask Charles about his ideas about wine making, he says that his contribution has been to improve the cellars and invest in some cement vats for a more gentle maceration and fermentation. Besides this, he has decided on adding about 20% ripe stems to give the wine just enough structure and an “extra push” to prolong the finish in the wines. His focus is on finesse, freshness and transparency. Otherwise, he and his team is very much focused on meticulous work in the vineyards to produce perfectly and evenly ripe fruit.

Charles van Canneyt

There is always this saying that a true great producer is not only met by his greatest wines, but his more simple village wines. It could not be more true than with this estate, since both village wines; Chambolle-Musigny and Vosne-Romanée have impressed us in the latest vintages. It is obvious that the wines keep getting better and better under Charles management. They own about 10 ha of planted area for wines made up of four villages and 15 appellations. The premier crus; Les beaumonts, Les Suchots and Aux Malconsorts are all more than 100 years old. The majority in the grand cru Romanée-Saint-Vivant were planted in 1920 whereas the ones in Richebourg were planted between in 1920-1950. The Clos-de-Vougeot were planted in 1950. The premier crus are raised in about 30% new, light-toasted and compact wood, primarily from Allier. The grand crus usually is given 50. As is the case with some of the best producers in the area, the oak is not noted at all even at a young age.

2011 Chambolle Musigny

From 11 different vineyards mostly planted in the 1950’s.
Classical Chambolle Musigny with bright red fruit and some elegance already at this level. All framed in super-silky texture. 90 p.

2011 Les Petits Vougeot

Some depth and more earthy and with nice fruit; mostly cranberries. 89 p.

2011 Nuits Saint Georges 1er cru “Les Mugniers”

Very young vines that Charles harvests early to save its freshness.

Quite this and closed when we tried it. A nice wine with a rustic tone to it, but did not make a strong impression. 90 p.

2011 Vosne Romanee, 1er cru Les Suchots

From 0.45 ha lot of really old vines planted in 1920’s, but also many much older.

Very nice subtle, floral perfume similar to the Les Malconsorts, but lacks just some complexity and structure, but with noticeable depth and more herbs. 93-94 p.

2011 Vosne Romanee, 1er cru Les Beaumonts

Planted in the 1920’s.

A very fresh wine that is lighter than Malconsorts, but with just enough structure. Lovely deep, darker fruit wrapped in spices and minerals. 93-94 p.

2011 Vosne Romanée, 1er cru Les Malconsorts

Only barely two barrels made from this small 0.13 ha lot.

Really fine balance, rich in aromatics very pure red fruit and plums. Quite persistent with finesse and some weightless structure that carries it to the finish line. Very fruit-driven but balanced. 94-95 p.

2011 grand cru Clos-de-Vougeot

This wine is from two lots of 0.7 ha planted in 1920 and in the best place surrounding the castle. 300 cases made.

Amazingly deep and graceful perfume in here. Great harmony and balance already with really deep layers of fruit and impressively silky. 95 p.

2011 Vosne Romanée, grand cru Romanée-Saint-Vivant

Vines are about 93 years old here and they add about 20% ripe stems to ensure enough structure. About 200 cases made.

The nose is very slow, but develops into an intense and incredibly fresh perfume of rose petals, lilies, fresh red berries and orange-peel. The mid-palate is lush and intense offering fresh, ripe and very clean layers of wild strawberries, fennel, anise seeds, dog rose, some cranberries, blood orange and notes of ginger and herbs. All wrapped in delicate deep minerals and fresh balsamic oils. It is remarkably elegant, graceful, lush and persistent and here I can really see the point with the stem addition to give the wine just some more seconds in the finish. 97-98 p.

2011 Vosne Romanée, grand cru Richebourg

Planted in the 1920’s and their parcels are in the lower parts with Grivot just above them and adjacent to Romanée Conti. About 220 cases made.

Very elegant and as expected with some more structure and power compared to Romanée-Saint-Vivant, but the fruit is not perceived as equally pure in here and the tannins are less silky now, but it is sheer depth and the minerality is part of its grip. Very generous however with darker fruit, earthy straw berries, blackberries, some cardamom with impressive length and elegance. 95-96 p.

Summary

Obviously, the domaine has a very high low-level in their broad range of wines. The wines are all about finesse, pliancy and freshness, but also depth and purity. We are impressed by the range and the quality. What is obvious is that the wines certainly are getting better and better. This is a producer to follow closely because they are a gem and with in many cases over 100 years old vines too.

Charles and Frederik in the cellar