Recently, several 2013 and 2014 bottling from Marchand-Tawse were released at the Swedish monopoly by curtsy of importer Vinitor AB. 2005 is a great vintage in Burgundy, but one that needs it time to come around for sure and for the crus, it is not yet prime time. This producer is biodynamic, conduct 100% destemming, five days cold soak, only one racking before bottling and they don’t use any new oak at all. This bottling was made from fruit from primarily better slopes in Pommard. Apparently, the latter bottling is a totally other blend.
This is a village blend that has just started to reveal typical Burgundy nuances e.g. sweet marzipan and obvious Asian spices. In addition a lot of compact red candy too and molasses. Nose is fine, but even though overly dominated by mandel icing and marzipan there are still complex notes that slips through.
On the palate, fruit is ripe, opulent and part of a creamy dessert wrapped in fine, complex minerals. It is delightful, but a little one-dimensional, simple and short. However, it is still an interesting village.
If you ask me, the Vigna Rionda is probably the best vineyard in Serralunga d’Alba, Barolo. However, you still need a skilled producer to make it justice. It is certainly not an easy wine, but one to be patient with and that is why most producers release it very late. Usually at its 10 years birthday and Oddero is no exception. We met up with them back in 2013 and you can read about our visit here.
As always less transparent with dense, ruby red colour.
The perfume is immediate, intense and compact with a noble combo of wood glue, dried flowers (lavendar, peony roses, lilies), bergamot, under vegetation, pine tree and exotic spices; mainly nutmeg and clove. Follow this wine for some hours, because it is rewarding. The terroir is very unique here and on the nose it is surprisingly much like the structured 2006 vintage.
On the palate there is gravel, earthy muchrooms and dry spices. It is compact, deep and well structured. The 2005 vintage is ok, but normally not for the long run: It was rainy and too little sun, so sometimes it lacks structure, fruit and can be perceived as diluted and unbalanced. This is far from dilution and it got pleanty of structure. However, tannins are still massive and it is not even near integrated either, so this will need plenty of more time in the cellar still. It may not be the most balanced wine and texture is displeasing, but I think it is rich offering a lot of terroir and the acidity is just enough to keep it fresh wrapping bergamot in the very dry finish. It is certainly not a main stream wine for the crowd, but it is from a very unique terroir. Open in 2022 is my educated guess after tasting wines from this vineyard. Tasted on the 2/12-2016.