Category Archives: Burgundy

A 3rd visit at Comte George de Vogüé – 2015 vintage tasting

On our last day of visits in Burgundy, a Friday the 25th of November, we met up with François Millet at domaine Comte George de Vogüé as we usually do in the last past years every time we are in Burgundy. The domaine has been around for a long time, actually since 1450 and the owners, Claire de Causans and Marie de Ladoucette, are the 20th generation of the family. François Millet was hired by them in 1986. He is a perfectionist and talks about young vines as “gifted teenagers but without any experience”. They are the largest owner in the best vineyard of Chambolle, the 10 ha large grand cru Musigny vineyard. 0.62 ha within this vineyard is planted with chardonnay for a very interesting re-planting of the Musigny blanc, but it has not yet been released to the market. They need to reach about 25 years of age before they are ready according to François. Their other grand cru is Bonnes-Mares and the “should be grand cru” Les Amoureuses. In addition, four premiers crus of which these can be mentioned; Les Baudes (bordering the Bonnes-Mares in the east) and Les Fuées (Their plot is in the middle bordering the Bonnes-Mares in the south) that have an average age of 45 years. They work organically, but they are not extremist in any way. Rather traditional and meticulous.

The 2015 vintage

François explains that 2015 vintage has a overly fast bud break, flowering and a warm June and July without any rains that reminds him of the long drought in 1976, but he agrees that it also shares some characteristics with 2005. A bit of rain in August really saved this vintage. They started harvest on the 3rd of September. There were little juice in the berries, so it is rich and concentrated, but at the same time remarkably fresh, balanced and transparent. Certainly a unique combo of richness, balance and freshness.

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François Millet

The ever so philosophic François has an interesting way of using metaphors to explain each vintage and he describes the vintage like relaxing on a ship’s deck on a Sunny day. He continues, “The Bonnes-Mares is the forest above the big, deep lake of Musigny and the river to that lake is the Amoureuses”.

2015 Chambolle-Musigny – BARREL

Mainly from Les Porlottes (west of the Chambolle village close to the nearby forest), but also contains juice from Chambolle’s premiers crus Les Baudes (bordering the Bonnes-Mares in the east) and Les Fuées (Their plot is the middle bordering the Bonnes-Mares in the south) that have an average age of 45 years.

A bright and fragrant nose. Bright black fruit wrapped in some spices and really fresh, vibrant minerals. Surprisingly elegant, balanced and generous for a village. 91-92p/100

2015 Chambolle-Musigny 1er cru – BARREL

This wine is made exclusively of declassified grapes from young vines (<25 years of age) in grand cru Les Musigny. “The Musigny in short trousers.”.

A slow and fragrant nose. Black fruit, but also pomegranate. Some spices and newly cut ginger. Notes of cinnamon. Really fresh, balanced and packed with vibrant and quite intense minerals. Elegant, rich and just so fresh. 93-94p/100

2015 Chambolle-Musigny 1er cru Amoureuses – BARREL

Mainly planted in 1964, 1974 and 1976. Only 0.56 ha in here. Stoney topsoil on a bed of limestone. They did a second racking just one week prior to our visit.

Beautiful, sensual and fresh floral top notes and vibrant, intense minerals at the base. Fruit leans more to black currant than normal, but also red currant and pomegranate. All wrapped in an abundance of sensual and intense minerals that steers the wine. Newly cut ginger and white pepper. A very sensual, delicate and sappy wine with impressive precision and persistence. 95-96p/100

2015 Chambolle-Musigny grand cru Bonnes-Mares – BARREL

2.7 ha located in the south-east corner of which the oldest were planted in 1945. Stoney and thin top soil mainly in the red soil part of this vineyard with more clay and marls, but very little minerals. François says that this wine is a wild man wine that needs close contact, but he was very careful this time and punched the grapes much more gentle than usual and fewer times than usual to avoid too much extraction and keep the sappiness. He also adds that “everything in here is purple in almost every sense”.

A very deep purple colour. Forest, pine, morning dew, peony? and black-blue fruit. Very, very juicy, creamy and sappy. Some anise seeds and undervegetation. A deep, multilayered, very pure and expressive wine with impressive precision. 96p/100

2015 Chambolle-Musigny grand cru Musigny – BARREL

The domaine owns the massive amount of about 7.5 of 10 ha here of this great grand cru. The oldest vines were planted in 1956, but parts were re-planted in steps 1986-1997. The terroir is not that much different from the Amoureuses, but it always offer more authority and precision. François compares it to the big and deep lake on a great summers day with little wind. 30% new, medium-toasted oak.

Deep red-red purple colour. Aristocratic and elegantly slow, but intense floral with a noble sensuality. The palate is long and balanced with an ample mid-palate of generous, rich and very fresh fruit; mainly pomegranate, but also black currant and raspberries. Also ginger and integrated spices. Super elegant, driven by truly vibrant minerals and with that special precision and depth to die for already. It will be truly exiting to wait for the release of this wine. 97-98p/100

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Frederik and François Millet

2005 Marshand-Tawse just shows theirs great development

Recently, several 2013 and 2014 bottling from Marchand-Tawse were released at the Swedish monopoly by curtsy of importer Vinitor AB. 2005 is a great vintage in Burgundy, but one that needs it time to come around for sure and for the crus, it is not yet prime time. This producer is biodynamic, conduct 100% destemming, five days cold soak, only one racking before bottling and they don’t use any new oak at all. This bottling was made from fruit from primarily better slopes in Pommard. Apparently, the latter bottling is a totally other blend.

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2005 Bourgogne “pinot noir”, Marchand-Tawse

This is a village blend that has just started to reveal typical Burgundy nuances e.g. sweet marzipan and obvious Asian spices. In addition a lot of compact red candy too and molasses. Nose is fine, but even though overly dominated by mandel icing and marzipan there are still complex notes that slips through.

On the palate, fruit is ripe, opulent and part of a creamy dessert wrapped in fine, complex minerals. It is delightful, but a little one-dimensional, simple and short. However, it is still an interesting village.

87p

2012 Cathiard impresses again in Aux Malconsorts

 

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We simply love the precision and quality that Sébastien and his father Sylwain succeeds to deliver in every vintage regardless of how difficult it may be.

2012 Vosne-Romanée 1er cru Aux Malconsorts, Sylwain Cathiard

The classic popcorn, distinct orange-peel, Vosne spices, ginger and intense violets and subtle roses. The clean bluish-red and creamy fruit is wrapped in layers of vibrating minerals and orange-peel. It is more forward, denser and opulent than usual, but still with that remarkable precision and finesse as always.  A very generous, rich and persistent wine that still should be kept for a few years more to the let the thick tannins ripen even more. (Tasted 5/8-2016)

94p/100

Crisp and fresh 2013 Gevrey-Chambertin village from Groffier

A third whole bunches were put into the fermentor for this wine and it was raised in 25% new, lightly toasted wood.

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2013 Gevrey-Chambertin “Les Seuvrées”, Robert Groffier

A lovely but slow and subtle perfume of crushed stone, some morning dew, dry herbs, and most notably of all, underbrush. Texture is somewhat edgy, but it is the fresh, clean and saline acidity that stands out wrapping highly concentrated and slightly bitter fruit (mainly red currant, lingonberries and cranberries) stones, savoury notes, notes of pears and dry honey. The extra stems add structure and backbone in a very good way and it is quite persistent too. Could probably improve some in 4-5 years.

89-90p/100

Foillard makes a really good Morgon in 2014 too!

We continue to follow Jean Foillard in Beaujolais. And this for good reason as he appears to get better and better. This time it is the 2014 vintage that was recently released at the monopole in Sweden. With his friends in the “Gang of 4”, he continues to achieve the most fresh gamay fruit with terroir by using maceration carbonique with insane low levels of sulphur and raises his wines in neutral wood. And this from vines of which some are 100 years old. Foillard’s Fleurie 2010 was tasted here. ..and his 2009 cuvée Pi and the normal 2012 was tasted here.

dsc047462014 Beaujoilais Morgon “Côte du Py”, Jean Foillard

An intense scent with a base of marzipan and synthetic glue. Top notes of coriander, violets and blueberry-raspberry jam. This describes well the forward and concentrated fruit in here too. In addition, Asian spices, minerals and newly cut fresh ginger. It has just a little of the trendy and funky natural style, but very little and totally forgiving as the balance, the crisp acidity, chewy texture and generosity dominates in a great way. As always a very honest expression of impressively clean and fresh fruits with complexity.

89-90p/100

Groffier’s 2014 “pinot noir” is the fantastic village as usual

Groffier is one of our absolute favourite in Burgundy and they probably makes the best entry bourgogne rouge. We have not yet succeeded in visitng them, but hopefully later this Autumn. The underline “pinot noir” is an export adaptation or maybe it is just cynical. Anyway, this wine is in fact made up of grapes from old vines from Morey-St-Denis and Vougeot, which is unusual at this price level. Their flagship Burgundy wine, the amazing Amoureuses from 2008 and 2009 were tasted here.

groffier_bourgogne2014 Bourgogne “pinot noir”, Robert Groffier

Very complex and beautiful minerals in here as well as very fresh, opulent flowers. Great fresh, perfume.

On the palate, cool, extremely pure, clean and fresh fruit impresses us. Some anise seeds. complex minerals, underbrush and earthy notes that wraps the fruit. Orange-peel and some herbs. Texture is fantastic for a village wine and so is its precision.

Quite persistent, pretty and elegant wine width some depth, but foremost an unexpected precision framed by very silky tannins. Simply a steel considering its price tag.

91+p/100

A wide-ranging blind tasting back in november 2015

We had a blind taste of a wide range of wines an evening in back in November and here is the result. Great tenderloin, chanterelles, risotto and pecorino accompanied these wines then. Two bottles form us each and a half bottle.

1993 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano riserva, Carpineto

The first wine is brought to the table by Frederik and it obviously has some age. Andreas has a hard time locating its origins and this is hard since the wine is from a region we haven’t payed any attention to and it contains 10% merlot, 20% canaiolo and the rest sangiovese grosso. It is a good wine that we hadn’t tested before with obvious age.

Sir Galahad:

Very fine matured nose of butter-fried chanterelles, some vanilla cain, some pencil led, vinaigrette, madeira, eucalyptus and a stylish, quite complex and fresh saline perfume. A complex and stylish nose.

Saline coated darker fruit; plums and black cherries, mush rooms, cedar oak, pepper and mush rooms are obvious on the palate. It is generous, rich and voluptuous. Very good, crisp and balsamic acidity. The texture is coarse and tannins are unfortunately harsh and edgy which is a true disappointment in an otherwise good vino nobile from Montepulciano with some age, the neighbour wine region to Montalcino in Tuscany.

87p/100

Andreas:

Some dense ripe fruit, hints of oak and saltiness opens the nose but there is also a pleasant creaminess.

Dark ripe fruit with blueberries and boysenberries but also under vegetation and mushrooms enter the scene on the palate where we also find a rather laid back but present acidity.

The finish is surprisingly short but has some nice dried fruit.

91p/100

2008 Chambolle-Musigny “Les Charmes”, Bertheau

The second wine is very fragrant and Andreas is the one bringing it to the table. Frederik is quickly and only based on the nose  in chambolle-musigny, but not sure what producer and is not nailing the vintage. After leaving the area for a few seconds after sipping a few more times, Andreas helps out just a little by saying that the first guess was not bad. It proves to be a 1er cru from our hero, Francois Bertheau in chambolle.

Sir Galahad:

Distinct ginger in here as well as fresh orange-peel, some curry and a lovely, seductive perfume of flowers with feminine characteristics that is enchanting and elegant. On the palate it is very generous, rich in ripe, red fruit; dominated by wild strawberries, ginger, blood orange and some anise. Very crisp and fresh acidity. Texture is velvety but with ripe and precise, but quite dense tannins. Its i very elegant, persistently generous and all about finess.

92+p/100

Andreas:

Mineral infused fresh nose with lots of red fruit and hints of floral notes. There are also orange peel, ginger, roses and hints of citric notes.

Fantastic acidity with razor sharp precision and some citric notes that are otherwise mainly found in white wine like Chenin Blanc. The red fruit is both fresh and slightly sweet.

The wine has an amazing precision and elegance but lacks some complexity and length.

93p/100

 

2014 Cheverny rouge “La Gravotte”, Clos du Tue-Boeuff

The 3rd wine is prepared by Andreas. Frederik can only pinpoint it to be from a natural wine producer and guesses on Loire and is sure it is very young, but has no clue of the producer. It turns out to be a producer that Andreas has visited and well known to the best restaurants in Copenhagen.

Sir Galahad:

The nose offers some crushed stone, but dominated by yeast boosting the aromas which is typical in trendy natural wines that is on the list at famous restaurant Noma. Fruit is a little sweet, but good balance, full-bodied and fresh with cool, fresh acidity. A little too much yiest for my taste, somewhat harsh tannins and it lacks complexity for a top wine.

88p/100

Andreas:

An abundance of rather sweet berries jump out of the glass together with notes of menthol. The palate is also dominated by fresh juicy red berries with a slightly sourish tone on the acidity. This is a very fruit driven, forward and generous wine but unfortunately it is too simplistic and lacks elegance for at top score.

88p/100

 

2012 Cornas “Renaissance”, Auguste Clape

Frederik brings this great wine of the best producer in Cornas to the tasting and Andreas is not familiar with Cornas before, but he is quite quickly in the Rhône dale ruling out Cote Rotie and the northern part based on the terroir.

Sir Galahad:

Distinct crushed, very forward and vibrating, typical granite stone followed by dried herbs, eucalyptus, earthy minerals, mush rooms, synthetic glue, and black tea. It appears to be holding back its authentic and mysterious traits at this point, but it is obvious that the complexity is lurking within if you spend some time with it like we did. On the palate, it is obviously too young yet, but very deep dark fruit, undervegetation, black tea and typical granite stone. Plenty of fresh, bitter and energetic acidity. Texture is a little fleshy, very thick and solid, but while tannins are not harsh at all, they are currently a little dry and grainy.

Obviously, this warm vintage rendered a very forward, dense and solid wine. It is very deep and quite powerful, but not heavy. It is a promising little brother wine in Auguste Clape’s cornas range. It obviously needs much more time, but a very forward and classic wine from Cornas of the defining master.

92-93p/100

Andreas:

Dense dark fruit with ripe boysenberries, blueberries and some fresh violet. There are also some wood glue, oil paint and some earthy notes.

The taste is also dense and deep but also has an amazingly energetic acidity which ensures that the wine never get heavy. There are crushed stone and dark minerals but also some slight pepper notes on the taste. Sometimes there is a slight bitterness that is pushed down by some slight sweetness.

A wine that combines dense and generous fruit with minerals and energy. Impressive effort.

93p/100

2010 Brunello di Montalcino, Campogiovanni

Frederik adds this to the bunch and Andreas guesses correctly that it is a brunello and correct vintage but not the producer.

Andreas:

An abundance of rather sweet berries jump out of the glass together with notes of menthol.

The palate is also dominated by fresh juicy red berries with a slightly sourish tone on the acidity.

This is a very fruit driven, forward and generous wine but unfortunately it is too simplistic and lacks elegance for at top score.

88p/100

Sir Galahad:

Distinct notes of asphalt, rubber boots and balsamic herbs on the nose.

Quite fullbodied wine with very dark fruit, dry herbs, gravel. Fine acidity and persistent but a little dry finish, sandy texture and without finesse.

87p/100

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The certainly wide tasting line-up

A 2009 Aux Malconsorts from the expert

The 2009 vintage is not classic, it is sexy if you ask the french. The wines are usually forward, big and with baby fat.

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2009 Vosne-Romanée 1er cru “Aux Malconsorts”, Sylwain Cathiard

Colour is translucent, dark red purple with light orange-pink edges.

As expected. A quite forward nose that initially emerges with a striking, stylish flirty perfume, loads of Vosne xmas-style spices, fresh cut ginger, some typical clove, cardamon.

Acidity is energetic and it is fresh, but where is the fruit? In a warmer than usual vintage there should be plenty of sweet fruit. Strange. However, the wine is full bodied and totally feather light-weighted as expected which is the hallmark of this skilled producer and texture may not be perfect in here, but fine grained and steers the wine gracefully to a slightly bitter end. It is super fresh, bolder than usual and pliant, but will the fruit get to the surface? Maybe it just needs much more time. (tasted 16/5-2016)

92-p/100

 

Burgundy tasting 2013 vintage part 3 – A few more reds and final thoughts

This is the third and last post in our series from the Burgundy tasting at Otto Suenson in February. The previous can be found here and here.

2013 Fernand Lécheneaut et Fils (Philippe et Vincent) Morey St. Denis 1er Cru Les Charrieres

Initially the red fruit dominate but then some blackberries and blueberries appear. The palate is fresh but also slightly sourish with mainly young red fruit. The wine lacks some depth and complexity.

90p

2013 Domaine Robert Chevillon Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Chaignots

Bright fruit dominate the nose together with some orange peel. The acidity starts great but ends with a slightly bitter expression. There are red currant, lemon and some iron notes on the palate together with a tannic structure.

This is interesting and good wine but it lacks some balance.

91p

2013 Mongeard-Mugneret Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Orveaux

Very earthy expression together with dark fruit and lemon notes. Sourish dark fruit, blueberries and black currant on the palate together with rather grippy tannins probably from the oak. This wine is more about power than elegance.

90p

2013 Bernard Dugat-Py Gevrey-Chambertin Les Evocelles Vieilles Vignes

Very masculine nose with an earthiness, meat and oak. Unfortunately there is a lack of fruit notes. Same style on the palate but we also find black berries and blue berries. There is an acidity but it fades rather quickly in the finish where we also find an abundance of oak.

88p

2013 Comte Armand Pommard 1er Cru Clos des Epeneaux

Brimming fruit notes, almond and ripe raspberries in this expressive and seductive nose.
Fine grained tannins but still with a grip. Acidity is good and includes some slight grape fruit notes. Long finish but unfortunately with a slight bitterness. Complex and expressive wine.

93p

2013 Coquard-Loison-Fleurot Echezeaux

Dense and complex nose with red and dark fruit, some mushrooms and orange peels. Rather soft but precise acidity and some silky tannins. Great wine but unfortunately some oak that masks the personality.

92p

2013 Maison Bertrand Ambroise Clos Vougeot

Dense nose with red and dark fruit, oranges and iron. Fantastic palate again with iron, oranges and some ripe berries. The wine has a rather soft expression on acidity and tannins and the finish is short and slightly sweet.

I would have hoped for more attitude and personality on this otherwise good wine.

90p

Final comments

This tasting confirmed how different the 2013 vintage can be depending on decisions made at the Domaine. At the end of the day we both walked away from the tasting with a couple of bottles from Tollot-Beaut and Leflaive, two producers who delivered fantastic wines in this challenging vintage.

Burgundy tasting 2013 vintage part 2 – The reds

This is part two of our notes from the tasting of 2013 Burgundy at Otto Suenson. We now move over to the reds, which are split into two sections. To read our previous post where we also make a short comment about the 2013 vintage, click here.

2013 Benjamin Leroux Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru Les Hauts Jarrons

Fresh and almost sourish red berries with lots is cherries but also hints of marzipan. Very attractive and vibrant nose. The acidity is not very precise but has good energy. Some young red fruit is well integrated with the acidity.

Not very complex but definitely a fresh and intense wine.

87p

2013 Domaine Ramonet Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Clos de la Boudriotte Rouge

A rather simple but elegant nose dominated by young cherries. Very precise acidity, minerals and mouthwatering but almost too young red fruit resulting in a slim body.

Fresh but rather simple wine that could develop with time.

88p

2013 Domaine Joblot Givry 1er Cru Clos de la Servoisine

Generous, intense and forward nose with both dark and red fruit. The wine has a clear acidic bite and a rather tannic structure for a Pinot. Blueberries, young cranberries and under vegetation.

Lacks some depth on the palate to balance the acidity and tannins.

88p

2013 Domaine Tollot-Beaut Corton-Bressandes

Very fragrant nose with perfume, fresh berries and some almond. There is a great balance between the vibrant acidity, the brimming red fruit and the velvety tannic structure. Some oak notes appear in the finish.

93p

2013 Domaine Ponsot Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Charmes

Initially a rather careful nose but then some bright red fruit appear together with notes of grape fruit. Juicy young acidity with lemon notes. Cranberries and some other red fruit in this rather tight palate.

The wine has great precision but will need much more time to develop.

91p

2013 Hubert Lignier Gevrey-Chambertin

Generous nose with both red and dark fruit and some dark minerals. Acidity is energetic and precise and complemented with some fresh fruit notes also including darker fruit like black berries.

This is a precise but not very complex wine.

91p