Monthly Archives: September 2016

Foillard makes a really good Morgon in 2014 too!

We continue to follow Jean Foillard in Beaujolais. And this for good reason as he appears to get better and better. This time it is the 2014 vintage that was recently released at the monopole in Sweden. With his friends in the “Gang of 4”, he continues to achieve the most fresh gamay fruit with terroir by using maceration carbonique with insane low levels of sulphur and raises his wines in neutral wood. And this from vines of which some are 100 years old. Foillard’s Fleurie 2010 was tasted here. ..and his 2009 cuvée Pi and the normal 2012 was tasted here.

dsc047462014 Beaujoilais Morgon “Côte du Py”, Jean Foillard

An intense scent with a base of marzipan and synthetic glue. Top notes of coriander, violets and blueberry-raspberry jam. This describes well the forward and concentrated fruit in here too. In addition, Asian spices, minerals and newly cut fresh ginger. It has just a little of the trendy and funky natural style, but very little and totally forgiving as the balance, the crisp acidity, chewy texture and generosity dominates in a great way. As always a very honest expression of impressively clean and fresh fruits with complexity.

89-90p/100

A fresh, price-worthy and elegant crozes-hermitage

David Reynaud at domaine les Bruyères works biodynamically, uses gravity and extraction is done in concrete. The 2014 crozes-hermitage Les Croix from old vines was recently released in Sweden.

dsc047492014 Crozes-Hermitage Les Croix, David Reynard (domaine les Bruyères)

A very pretty perfume of red fruit, violets and roses as top notes and plenty of bay leaves, Mediterranean herbs and savoury notes at the bottom. Unexpectedly easy tripping and elegantly walking beauty with medium body, clean fruit and very crisp acidity. Fine balance, generous and very price-worthy wine driven by minerality with velvety texture, but this wine might be even better in a few years more.

91+p/100

The two 2010 Pajés from Roagna are a velvet glove

After having tasted the 2010 langhe rosso and the marvelous 2010 Pira vecchie viti we simply had to evaluate the two pajés; the normal and the vecchie viti. The latter is twice as expensive from vines on average 60 years old and minimum 50, whereas the normal’s vines are between 25-50 years old. As usual extraction using the traditional sub-merged caps method is hefty with 2 months for the normal and another half month for the vecchie viti. This tasting was half blind to make it more interesting.

dsc04742

2010 Roagna Pajé

Andreas:

Intense but rather slim nose with pure red berries, lemon peel and some herbal notes. Cool and almost electric acidity combined with silky but still grippy tannins. Herbal notes, blueberries, raspberries, slight cherry notes, orange peel and some rather surprising hints of sherry in the background. Mouthwatering and precise finish.

At he moment the acidity is slightly dominant but this will definitely calm down with time. Energetic and intense wine.

94p/100

Sir Galahad:

Dense nose. Very slow scent of rose petals, beeswax and inner perfume. Concentrated, juicy, cool black- and red fruit in balance with crisp, vivid and balsamic acidity wrapping orange-peel and beeswax. Aromas of anise seeds, Asian spices and savoury notes. Velvety texture with chewy tannins with grip. Medium bodied and generous. The clean persistent finish lacks just some precision compared to its pricier counterpart, but compensates this well with freshness and approachable balance.

94p/100

2010 Roagna Pajé vecchie viti

Andreas:

Dense and compact nose with intense notes of oil paint, ripe (almost jammy) strawberries, blueberries and some roses. Soft but still fresh acidity with some citric notes in the finish. Ripe strawberries, leather, blueberries and orange peel on the palate. Tannins are grippy but fine grained.

This wine has a truly amazing nose but the palate needs more time to integrate. When it is ready we have a very complete and complex wine with great personality.

96p/100

Sir Galahad:

Dense nose here too but just a little more depth and much more intense. An amazing nose of grace that is vibrating and compelling. As expected, a little more precision here and depth, but currently more tight and things are not in place yet, but it broods on something special. More concentration and power in here and a little more jammy and currently somewhat smudgier fruit. Acidity is great and crisp with razor-sharp precision. First mostly dark fruit and cherries, but after some hours anise seeds, earthy strawberries, dark plums and notes of blueberries appear. This will need plenty of time to come around. An unpolished diamond. A guess is in 2025.

95-96p/100

Summary

For early drinking in the coming 5-6 years, the normal pajé is recommended as we both agree that it is more approachable and balanced now. For the long term, the vecchie viti is absolutely a notch up on the nose. On the palate, it is not so big a difference, but vecchie viti lurks on more precision, structure and concentration.