A 2009 Aux Malconsorts from the expert

The 2009 vintage is not classic, it is sexy if you ask the french. The wines are usually forward, big and with baby fat.

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2009 Vosne-Romanée 1er cru “Aux Malconsorts”, Sylwain Cathiard

Colour is translucent, dark red purple with light orange-pink edges.

As expected. A quite forward nose that initially emerges with a striking, stylish flirty perfume, loads of Vosne xmas-style spices, fresh cut ginger, some typical clove, cardamon.

Acidity is energetic and it is fresh, but where is the fruit? In a warmer than usual vintage there should be plenty of sweet fruit. Strange. However, the wine is full bodied and totally feather light-weighted as expected which is the hallmark of this skilled producer and texture may not be perfect in here, but fine grained and steers the wine gracefully to a slightly bitter end. It is super fresh, bolder than usual and pliant, but will the fruit get to the surface? Maybe it just needs much more time. (tasted 16/5-2016)

92-p/100

 

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