In February we attended the yearly Burgundy wine tasting at the Danish importer, Otto Suenson, offering a great selection of Burgundy wines. The tasting was focused on the 2013 vintage.
2013 was the another tough year for the Burgundy estates requiring very active work in the vineyards and hard selection to render a successful result. Some areas, especially Savigny, Volnay and Pommard, was hit hard by hailstorms, resulting in very super-low yields and many vignerons were down on their knees with extremely low crop. In addition, the very important flowering was late too. In general the season was cold with august as the only exception, and as a result ripeness was an issue and several producers had to make the decision of harvesting slightly unripe berries or rot ones. As a consequence, most producers had to use chaptalisation. This has resulted in wines with a high level of acidity, a rather slim body and in some cases tougher and less ripened tannins. In one of the somewhat spared areas e.g. Chambolle, Francois Millet of domaine de Vogüé labled 2013 the ‘rebel’ vintage, but not the pretty one.
2013 Domaine Ramonet Bouzeron (Aligoté)
Slim nose with lemon, apples, tropical fruit, white flower and flint. Rather slim but with great acidity and minerals.
The wine lacks some depth but has great precision and elegance.
2013 Olivier Merlin Mâcon La Roche-Vineuse Vieilles Vignes
Fruity nose with rather ripe apples, pears and plums. Rather soft palate with fruity flavors. The acidity stays in the background and is soft.
This is a gentle and fruit based wine that lacks some energy.
2013 Benjamin Leroux Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Les Murgers des Dents de Chien
Initially we mainly get oak and smoke on the nose, but then some tropical fruit, lemon and minerals appear.Grippy and citric acidity that still remains rather careful. There are clear notes of oak that dominates over the fruit.
The wine lacks freshness and energy but has some depth and complexity.
2013 Paul Pillot Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Caillerets
Fruit and minerals dominate this well balanced nose. There are apricot, oranges, plums, nuts and some toasted oak on both the nose and the palate. The acidity is juicy and rather soft.
I consider the nose better than the palate that lacks some elegance.
2013 Domaine Jacques Prieur Meursault 1er Cru Santenots
An abundance of hazelnut, butter, apricot and plums on this round and generous nose. Dense palate with ripe fruit, plums and a juicy but too careful acidity.
Generous and likable wine that would work good with food.
2013 Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Clavoillon
Amazingly elegant nose with lime, lychee, nectarines and white flower. The acidity is vibrant and precise. On the palate we get more exotic fruit with mainly pineapple and in the finish some careful oak notes appear.
Very pure and elegant wine with great balance and a rather long finish.