A 2009 Amoureuses from a detail-focused fan of gravity in Volnay

Now, we are back after the x-mas holidays!

Mr Patrick Landanger, with a background of running a family business of developing surgical equipment with several inventions of his own, is the producer of the wine this time. If you pay him a visit, you’ll notice several inventions, e.g. the glass constuction on each barrel used when topping them.

Like many other vignerons in Burgundy, he employs cold soak for a few days, in his case, seven and then 21 days of maceration on the skins. The grape juice is raised in 30% new oak for 18 months on the lees without batonage and Mr Landanger is a big fan of gravity and thus avoids any side-effects from pumping. He pays attention to the moon calendar, but thinks biodynamics is too religious. The roots in his parcels in this great vineyard are quite young; replanted in 1976 and 1977 and they were acquired in 2008 when Daniel Moine was selling out. This bottle is the very first bottling of Amoureuses under the Domaine de la Pousse d’Or’s label. The vineyard was according to rumours in very bad shape when Patrick took over.

DSC046662009 Les Amoureuses 1er cru, Domaine de la Pousse d’Or

Colour is transparent, red orange with typical pink-orange edges. However. less pink than usual and very beautiful indeed. Hence, a little more blood orange than pink almost like a nebbiolo wine. 🙂

A nose of immediate popcorn, newly cut ginger and subtle notes of cardamom. The vineyards recognisable, seductive and hedonistic inner perfume emerges extremely slowly after two hours in waves. After another two hours, newly cut rose petals and white lilies appear as top notes as well as grape-peel and the sought-after morning-dew on gravel.

On the palate, the red fruit is clean, pure and dominated by wild strawberries, but also red currant and ginger as well in the anorectic building body with quite long and somewhat elegant finish. However, oak is a little dominating yet. Acidity is fresh, cool, but except from grape-peel, it wraps overly saline crystalline minerals; almost salty and a little bitter. Unfortunately, it is a little diluted too, but precision is here and elegancy. Texture is soft, but still spurs too much in the cheeks and needs much more time.

It certainly lacks concentration, is overly saline and a little bitter, but still it offers the elegancy and perfume from this sacred and wonderful vineyard with some precision. Since this is the first wine Patrick produced, most likely quality will improve and we need to try upcoming vintages. Open in 2019.

92-93p/100

 

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *