If you ask us, Claudio Fenocchio of the Giacomo Fenocchio estate is the absolute top producer in the true Bussia, i.e. before the consorzio made a mess of the Bussia area. It used to be only two; Bussia Soprana and Bussia Sottana. The latter is the one that Claudio’s Bussia is from and he is a really hard working true non-intervenist that makes honest wines with distinct terroir.
Beautiful, glowingly and quite transparent blood orange pulp colour with tints of red purple in the middle and transparent edges this young.
The nose emerges as very closed and reticent, even after several hours of airing. However, I notice dark cherries, distinct wood glue, lavender, eucalyptus, tiny notes of leather, some tobacco, balsamic fur tree, earthy minerals. The day after there is a noble perfume accompanied by dried violets. It is a pretty and complex nose, but very subtle, analytic and reticent at this stage.
The gnarly acidity really needs hours of airing now, but then and especially the day after, it emerges as a very deep and absolutely seamless with ripe, relatively soft and chewy tannins. The palate offers cool, pure dark cherries, black peppers, licorice-root, spices, shale stone, thyme and some tobacco.
It is a little backward, very demanding and not a thrilling barolo at this stage, but after spending two days with it, we are convinced that it conceals a very complex, mystic and deeply layered barolo that may just evolve into something truly great with impeccable precision, but you need to give it a lot of time. Wait until 2025 is our guess.