A forward Les Mitans from the roots of Volnay history

The domaine Lafarge uses very little new oak (< 10%), which is quite unusual in Burgundy nowadays and their practices are based on historical knowledge, sticking to selection massale grapes and never experimented with clones. We just met with Frédéric Lafarge and his father a week ago in Burgundy and we will put up a post shortly on this. The vineyard “Les Mitans” appears to mean mid-slope and has somewhat east exposition with early morning sun between 1er crus Les Brouillards and En L’Ormeau. The top soil is a mix of marl and limestone. The center is a layer of stone and deeper down there is clay. This diversity and soil composition renders wines with complexity.

2009 Volnay 1er cru “Les Mitans”, Michel Lafarge

Translucently light red-purple and blood orange middle with light edges. Very fine colour.

The nose emerges with water-on-stone, earthy notes, newly wedged grass, deep minerals and fresh herbs; eucalyptus, thyme. After another three hours, an intriguing, deep inner perfume arrives and notes of dried violets. An honest, quite pretty nose from the soil.

On the palate, the wine is immediately just a little bitter, but there is ripe fruit in the background as well as tea, hints of coffee, gravel and loads of deep minerals. The vivid, cool acidity is wrapped with saline dry licorice and currently a little less pleasant sour-bleak grape juice that is just a little overly dominating. Texture is smooth and soft. Tannins are fine sandy in a manner that resembles a 10-year-old warmer short-cycled Barolo from La Morra.

This is a transparent wine with smooth, soft texture from thick, wide stroking tannins driven by a remarkably vivid, high quality acidity, but it is not a seductive charmer and now it hides the fruit. More of a transparent, honest and genuine, but fragile hero speaking the tales of its origin and brooding on something mystic. It certainly needs to time to develop.

90-92p/100

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