Exceptional 2010 Gavarini Chiniera from Elio Grasso

And not a surprisingly we continue exploring the amazing 2010 vintage in Barolo. 🙂

The great vineyard Gavarini in Monforte d’Alba of Barolo is situated on a protected hill 360 m above sea-level descending steeply down to 320 m and the upper part, Chiniera, sits on a cliff with perfect south exposure protected in the back by some wood. It is a monopoly owned by the Elio Grasso family and now Elio’s son Gianluca has taken over the work. Extraction is carried out in steel up to 30 days and the grape juice is raised in neutral 25 hl barrels.

2010 Barolo Gavarini Chiniera, Elio Grasso

A beautiful, very much transparent blood orange colour that glows with very light-orange edges.

The nose emerges with unpleasant butter in one of our bottles that covers everything and had us worried at first, but after several hours of airing thankfully it disappears completely and then great flavours starts appearing. Possibly an effect from malo in that unique bottle, since another one was great from the start. It is dense and quite intense and at the base there is distinct wallpaper adhesive, some bergamot, wet crushed stone, worn leather jacket, mint and subtle notes of tobacco. And then suddenly after some more hours, a distinct aristocratic, sophisticated and very fresh, lovely feminine perfume emerges that is so captivating as well as subtle with dried flowers, beeswax and cut rose petals as top notes. Ah, wow this is an intriguing and very deep and clean nose, and already at this state, that you just want to explore for a while without even drinking and it is just simply lovely.

On the palate, there are immediate very pure, ripe, cool and super small berries; mainly dark cherries combined with red currant, but also wild strawberries coated in very delicate and fresh minerals, balsamic herbs, notes of espresso and delicate spices. Much less tar now than expected. From Monforte d’Alba, even though taken into account an unusual vintage of potentially perfect tannins, you would still expect a more powerful wine with somewhat firmer, edgier tannins at this stage. On the contrary, this wine offers remarkably soft texture with absolutely ripe and fine grained, but thick and authoritative tannins. It is the vintage. Actually, the wine is surprisingly approachable, very slender and absolutely weightless, but of course dense and highly concentrated. In addition, it is persistent acidity is just a tiny overly saline now from perfection, but impressively vivid and energetic, so just add some sea salt to your accompanying dish or bring aged pecorino cheese.

Naturally, this is just a baby, but a very pure, now somewhat reticent, fresh and slender beauty that offers impeccable precision, sheer depth and impressive elegance that I am sure will put a smile on your face. Yet another great manifestation of the glorious 2010 vintage. It is very approachable and open even now, but for perfection forget it for a decade or at least wait until around 2020 and if you can some years later than that. It might turn out that our score here is a step too low.. That is how remarkably good this wine is in this vintage.

96-97p/100

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *