An impressive village chambolle from a producer on the rise

This estate is really interesting and definitely on the rise in Burgundy. The quality was very much improved by Pierre Nawrocki’s time as cellar master and set a new benchmark that brought some attention, but we don’t think that the world has really understood their potential yet and the very positive direction they are going. Since 2008, Charles van Canneyt is heading the estate with much help of the enologist Vincent Meunier in the cellar that somewhat appears to have been taken over the relay race baton from Nawrocki and they keep getting better and better. There is always this saying that a true great producer is not only met by his greatest wines, but his more simple village wines. It could not be more true than with this estate, since both the Bourgogne rouge and the base Chambolle-Musigny and Vosne-Romanée have impressed us in the latest vintages.

The vintage 2011 was a difficult one and yields about 35% lower than normal and consequently the prices for the crus are high. It is a short-cycled vintage with very early bud break and a uniform flowering that was in full blossom already in a summer-like May. In June fierce winds destroyed some plants. Summer was unstable until mid August emerged as quite hot but with heavy rains that caused some mildew and rot. However, tannins in the grapes were almost perfect and ripening equal to 2010. An extremely early harvest began in the last days of August like in 2007.


2011 Hudelot-Noëllat, Chambolle-Musigny

The colour is translucently crimson red with light cerise and red purple edges.
The nose offers seductive perfumes, peon roses, typical rowan berries, wood glue, very distinct dusty gravel, Asian spices, cardamon, clove, some delicate and somewhat carefully, burned, minerals. It has a much better nose than expected from a village wine from chambolle and this is very transparent and fresh.
The taste is very pure, fresh and sourish red fruit; red current and wild strawberries, blood orange, Asian spices, ginger, dusty gravel, notes of menthol, anise, tea and fine tuned burned minerals. After one hour of decanting, the acidity calms down and it reveals its very balsamically fresh energy. The structure a little light, but concentration is fine. Texture is silky and tannins are very approachable, but they lack some backbone. In addition, maybe it is overly polished too.

This wine may be a little too polished, suffering a little from a volatile envelope and lack some grip in the finish, but these are minor remarks considering how very price-worthy this chambolle village really is in terms of purity and richness. Open 2016.


88-89p/100


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