A beautiful, Volnay-like and transparent brunello

The estate Eredi Fuligni located in the eastern part of Montalcino, the Cottimelli area, and is headed by the elderly lady Maria Flora Fuligni and her younger nephew, professor Roberto Guerrini Fuglini, with the help of oenologist Paola Vagaggini in the cellar and agronomist Federico Ricci in the vineyards. They own parcels in four different vineyards, S. Giovanni, Il Piano, Ginestreto and La Bandita, all at high altitudes, and they are all vinified separately and then blended into a brunello. In very good vintages, a brunello riserva is made from selected grapes. Oldest plants are from 1975 and the youngest are twelve years old. These are brunellos polished to perfection with one foot in tradition and the other in modern methods, much inspired by Burgundy with green harvest, hard pruning, low controlled yields for out most quality and very pleasing to us they are careful with french oak. Ages one year in 5hl Tonneaux (Allier) french barrels and then another two years in neutral, big Slavonian botte. I think that they didn’t use any new oak at all in the 2007 vintage and they are pleasingly moving into a more traditional approach here. Yes, this is a very interesting producer. In this vintage that was so packed with fruit and very approachable some producers did not gain from doing a riserva, so the normal brunello may excel without further aging in wood.

2007 Fuligni Brunello di Montalcino

Sir Galahad:

The colour is beautifully translucent garnet red with light-orange, transparent edges.

After about one hour, there is a very careful, lovely scent of obvious worn leather, distinct eucalyptus, dusty gravel, cumin, glue, dried mushrooms, white peppers, balsamic herbs and tiny notes of cardamon emerging when putting the nose to the glass. After yet another two hours, oil paint, fresh notes of mint and a very deep, delicate and gorgeous inner perfume suddenly appears. Moreover, there is lavender bath soap. Quite amazing change into an already fine, but now a lovely, deep and very beautiful nose.

The taste offers layers of fresh, pure and cool, but currently sourish red fruit. Other mid palate aromas are fennel, Swedish lakrisal, white pepper, gravel, grape juice, herbs, clove, exotic spices and blood orange. Texture is velvety, little dusty, but very polished and tannins are quite ripe, but still rasps the tongue just a little so it needs to settle and integrate more. The acidity is full of balsamic grape peel and is energetically fresh, that is actually not as whining as expected. It is a super round and well-balanced wine with slim and feather-light Volnay type that is handcrafted with precision and transparently complex, but even though there is no disturbing notion of oak, the wine is maybe a just a little too polished and overly sweet for my taste.


This is a brunello that certainly doesn’t feel like doing any hasty advances or flirtations. It is rather a sophisticated, aristocratic young lady and perfectly looking cat-walking model in the same package that obviously knows she is very beautiful, but still and surprisingly, is a little shy, quiet and takes her time. However, she is perceived as a somewhat polished newbie on the stage wearing just a little too much make up. Moreover, she fumbles a little in her high heels on the catwalk, struggles walking elegantly and offers a little dry sensation in the finish. Her scent is amazingly complex and lovely, but the taste does not totally live up to the expectations and promises even though it is packed with fruit. However, this is absolutely still a great and very interesting wine. Open in 2017 to let the tannins polymerise further.

93p/100

Andreas:

We find a nose with lots of cherries, ripe berries, red current and tea here. A few hours after opening the wine it reveals much, much more depth and complexity. The mid palate now offers hints of paint, solvent and even more ripe fruit. There is also a bit of sharpness on the nose, probably from the acidity.

When tasting the wine we are met with quite high levels of acidity that certainly adds freshness and energy to the wine. There is also an abundance of licorice, cherries, eucalyptus, grape fruit, and some hints of minerals and herbs.

The tannins are very silky and stay with us in the finish in collaboration with the acidity. Unfortunately there are also hints of bitterness from the grape fruit at the end, which for me affects the overall impression of the wine.

This is a quite intense wine with freshness, energy and a complexity. It is highly recommended to decant for a couple of hours before consumption.


93/100p


2 thoughts on “A beautiful, Volnay-like and transparent brunello

  1. Joakim

    Thanks for that note! I haven´t tasted the 07 – yet…:-) I have been fortunate to taste some Riserva´s – 1988, 1999, 2001 and 2004 – all stunning wines in that zone between modern and traditional winemaking. I really like Fuligni! 🙂

    /Joakim

    http://barolista.blogspot.se/2013/03/in-search-of-brunello-di-montalcinos_9.html
    http://barolista.blogspot.se/2013/03/in-search-of-brunello-di-montalcinos_8.html
    http://barolista.blogspot.se/2013/09/in-search-of-brunello-di-montalcinos_24.html

    Reply
  2. Sir Galahad

    Being a true Fuligni fan, you should. 🙂
    http://www.systembolaget.se/74881

    The obvious vintage for me, except ’06, would be ’04 but as you noted more new oak in there.
    However, the ’07’s may not be equally as good as the 06, but very close and of course much more approachable and packed with fruit.
    They are absolutely moving in the right direction and the 2010 will be interesting and worth waiting for..

    Reply

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