Domaine Marquis d’Angerville – Domaine profile and tasting of Clos desDucs and Fremiet 2001

Our series on the Volnay vineyards and producers has been a bit delayed because of work with the Piedmont trip, but we have now moved on and concluded the second tasting of wines from Domaine Marquis d’Angerville (http://www.domainedangerville.fr).

Domaine Marquis d’Angerville has a long history and they have had a leading role in the development of the Volnay region. In 1920 the Domaine where part of the creation of Domaine bottling when they, together with a few other growers, started developing their own wines themselves instead of selling to négociants (companies buying grapes and producing and marketing wines).

Between 1952 and 2003 Jacques d’Angerville ran the Domaine according to the principles and methods he had learned from working with his father. Jacques d’Angerville became a legend in the region and when he died in 2003 and Guillaume D’Angerville took over many people where watching the development closely to see if Domaine Marquis d’Angerville would continue to produce wine at the same quality level and following the same principles. Guillaume D’Angerville has continued in his fathers footprints in the wine production but he has also expanded the Domaine. In 2012 he bought two properties in Jura (located between Burgundy and Switzerland) with vineyards of approximately 5 ha together.

In Volnay Domaine Marquis d’Angerville produces wines from the following vineyards: Clos des Ducs, Caillerets, Champans, Clos des Angles, Fremiet, Mitans, Pitures, Taillepieds and two village wines. They also have vineyards in Meursault, Pommard and as mentioned previously they recently aquired vineyards in Jura. Before these acquisitions the total area was 13,5 ha. The vineyard Domaine Marquis d’Angerville is most famous for the Monopole (meaning they are the owner of the whole vineyard) Clos des Ducs, which more or less is in the garden of the Domaines estate.

For Jacques d’Angerville and later Guillaume D’Angerville quality has been the absolute top priority. The main principles they have followed are low yields, old vines, no herbicides and very careful usage of new oak. The basis for the great wines has been the work in the vineyards and not the vinification process. They very rarely replant larger section with new vines, instead they replace individual vines when they die. When it comes to the usage of oak for aging the principle is to not use more than 35% new oak since this can impair the elegance of the wines.

The 2001 vintage which we tasted is not considered a top vintage and the vineyards in Volnay where hit by a hailstorm which reduced the harvest and the uneven weather resulted in grapes that didn’t always reach ripeness. Concentration and balance could be an issue as well. The opinions about the vintage part but most agree that it is a winemaker’s vintage where some have been quite successful.

The wines we tasted

2001 Volnay 1er cru – Clos des Ducs


Andreas: 

The wine has a quite sharp nose with lots of red berries, mainly cherries and some rowan berries. We also find leather, anise and some hints of solvent. The nose is quite volatile and the character changes a few times during the evening.
When tasting the wine we are surprised by the high levels of acidity and again we find lots of red berries. Unfortunately there is bitterness in the finish.
We did expect a lot more from this wine. We did re-evaluate it a few times during the evening, and the wine has some complexity, but in total it did not reach up to our expectations.

90p/100

Sir Galahad:

Nose: Earth cellar, distinct solvent, dried grass, menthol and salami. Some complexity, but volatile, forever changing nose.
Taste: loads of bitter sourish red fruit, rowan berries, citrus, gravel and clove. The wine is a little volatile, but concentration is fine. Structure is slim and this is a feather-light wine. Concentration is good and it offers some complexity, but the wine is strange, backward and harsh, bitter in the end.

89p/100

2001 Volnay 1er cru – Fremiet


Andreas: 

The nose of the Fremiet is quite earthy and has clear notes of menthol which gives some character. There are some quite ripe berries but also hint of paint and some cellar cents in the background.
The taste follows the same character with ripe berries and earthiness. There is a clear acidity but unfortunately it does not add any freshness to the wine. Again we find some hints of bitterness in the finish.
We also expected more from the Fremiet, even though the expectations where not as high as for the Clos des Ducs.

88p/100

Sir Galahad:

Nose: Fresh rose soap, vegetal, perfumes, mint, pastry, cardamon, fresh red flowers, salami and notes of solvent. A complex nose that promises a lot.
Taste: Bitter sourish red fruit, grape-peel, shale, metals and clove. The wine is a little volatile, but concentration is fine. Structure is slim and this is a feather-light wine. It doesn’t offer complexity, depth or elegance and it could be fresher, but is an easy drinking wine.

87p/100

Summary

This tasting was a disappointment, partly because of our high expectations on Domaine Marquis d’Angerville. We will give them a new try where we taste from another vintage. I also have a bottle of Les Taillepieds from 2000 which probably will be opened soon, but according to many it is in the same league as the 2001.

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