A 2001 Barbaresco from 60 year old vines

This wine is from selected grapes from about 60 years old vines in the very steep, south-west facing parts of the Bricco di Neive vineyard in the Barbaresco area. Secondo Pasquero Elia and his sons Silvano and Giovanni with the help of Beppe Caviola uses rotor fermentors and french casks, but has lately started to move away somewhat from the distinct modern style. However, this wine is modern and underwent maceration for 8 days in rotor fermentors and 30 months in Slavonian oak of which 30% was new.

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2001 Barbaresco Sorì Paitin, Paitin

Colour is dense garnet red with light-light orange edges.

The nose emerges with some immediate medicinal cabin and earth cellar that disappears after an hour. Then a complex wide-spanning nose takes the stage with lavender, dark cherries, delicate red flowers, stylish perfumes, clove, salami, herbs, white pepper, coriander, mint, saline mushrooms, incredibly fresh balsamic notes, super-fresh breezy notes. Incredibly fresh and interestingly complex nose indeed.

On the palate we are offered sourish blackberry, raspberry jam, tiny forgiving oaky notes, menthol, pastry, oranges, grape-peel, some smoke, tar, sweet exotic spices and delicate minerals. It is a building powerful, structured and ample wine. Texture is fine sandy, soft and tannins are ripe, but the balsamic acidity is still very gnarly and a little edgy even after 12 years and there is a little unpleasant metallic-austere finish, residual sugars that disturbs everything great in here unfortunately.

After an impressively fresh, complex nose (actually it has a typical scent of a much older wine), the taste is unfortunately a little disappointment. In contrast to the nose, the taste lacks some freshness, suffers from an austere-metallic finish and a just little too sweet, somewhat overripe fruit. This is truly sad, since there is so much lush, pliant fruit and really complex aromas in here. However, the wine is best when combined with saline, heavy food and cheese/salami. Could the sweetness be that they harvested a little too late this year?

There are rumours telling us that the estate has consulted the skilled enologist Dante Scaglione, known from his outrageous achievements in collaborations with Bruno Giacosa, and that the vinification is changed step by step to improve quality by e.g. softer pressing, employing traditional maceration with submerged caps and bigger barrels starting from the 2010 vintage. This vintage of this wine is claimed to be very good from cask, but will probably not be released until 2016, so a long wait here. However, I will try to get hold of one of their later vintages soon, because I think that this producer has great potential and the 2007 gets good scores.

92+p/100.

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