Grapes undergoes maceration for a long time for a modernist, so this should extract more aromas from the terroir. Fermentation inclusive malo is carried out in steel. When malo is finished, the wine is moved into barriques of which 50% are new for 12 months and then the wine is put into neutral big barrels for another 12 months. I am pretty sure this is a change from keeping it in barriques for more than 24 months in previous years and even during malo at times, before 2005.
2007 Ceretto Barolo Zonchera
Colour: Dark ruby red, white edges.
Nose: Solvent, oil paint, tar, grass, truffle, balsamic-fresh minerals, autumn leaves. After an hour of airing, lovely violets and fragrant roses emerges from the glass. An elegant and terroir-complex nose.
Taste: Deep, ripe and caressing fruit; boysenberries, plum and cherries. A little on the sweet side. Tar, worn leather, anise, orange-peel, distinct dry licorice, some toffee and very fine tuned balsamic minerals. The wine is very approachable, round, texture is really fine sandy almost silky already and tannins are soft and of good quality. The structure is almost full-bodied and the tannins and the very fresh balsamic acidity converge beautifully in the persistent finish.
We have tasted other earlier vintages from Ceretto and had some issues with overuse of oak, but here Alessandro and Federico Ceretto’s team have obviously been cutting down on the time new oak is in contact with the juice and clearly show that they really got it right this vintage. We really enjoy its transparency for terroir, its richness, complexity and unexpected level of elegance at this price level. Open now-2020. Costs about €35.