This wine is from the unofficial grand cru Brunate in the commune of La Morra in Barolo and Marengo owns two parcels with perfect exposition in the top parts of this fantastic vineyard. Producion is extremely small and there is a version of this wine from 70-80 old vines too, but this is the regular brunate. The 3rd generation Marco Marengo is running the estate today with help of the skillful enologist Beppe Carviola. This wine undergoes ten days maceration and then after malo it is aged in barriques for about 24 months of which 30% are new. Costs about €45, so very price worthy indeed.
The vintage 2007 is a warm year with an unusually early blooming, a whole month earlier than usual, and it was saved by a late cooling period right before an early harvest. The wines are usually very forward, a little fleshy, opulent, intense, but not heavy and still with fresh acidity. It is not a great vintage, but still a very good one and it is approachable now and will not be long lived.
2007 Marengo Barolo “Brunate”
Colour: dark ruby-red colour, transparent white edges.
Nose: Some distinct dry licorice root, tiny notes of dog rose, wonderful roses, toffee, lavender, dry boysenberry jam, balsamic notes, some saline mushrooms, wet autumn breeze, typically burned, delicate notes of limestone and truffle. Some peppery oak notes are here too but not disturbing in any way at all. Incredibly fresh and terroir-honest bouquet. It is so extremely fragile and delicate, but I love the nose!
Taste: Very fresh, very balsamic and with energetic acidity. Very carefully, delicate low tuned red fruit, fennel, promising acidity here. Super-slim body and this vintage is just a little volatile in Concentration. Texture is fine sandy and tannins are very soft.
It is not as deep on fruit as expected from this vineyard, but it is extremely elegant, fresh and even though it may lack some complexity too, this is a wine is an honest ambition and focus on conveying the special terroir of Brunate. We definitely need to find the “vecchie vigne” version soon..