2007 Albino Rocca, Vingeto Brich Ronchi

This wine is from Albino Rocca. The estate is one of the most praised by critics world-wide from barbaresco and is run by Angelo Rocca and his daughters. This wine is made from grapes from the vineyard Ronchi, which is located in between the famous Montestefano in the north and the great Rabaja in the south. All just east of Barbaresco. This wine is made in a very modern international style with ageing in 70% barriques of which 80% are new. 30% is aged in 20hl Austrian and German neutral casks. Recently, they apparently been using much less barriques since the 2008 vintage and on the web page states that they use only 20%.

The vintage 2007 is a warm year with an unusually early blooming, a whole month earlier than usual, and it was saved by a late cooling period right before an early harvest. The wines are usually very forward, a little fleshy, opulent, intense, but not heavy and still with fresh acidity. There is a tendency for unbalance and it is not great vintage, but still a very good one and it is approachable now and will not be long lived.

2007 Albino Rocca, Barbaresco Vigneto Brich Ronchi

Sir Galahad:

Colour: Very dark ruby red with white edges.
Nose: A distinct scent of austere oak in the beginning that made me really worried due to my obvious preference for transparent wines, but very fortunately it changes a lot after an hour and then showing some gravel, solvent, tiny notes of worn leather, rosemary herbs, distinct and unexpected fresh scent of hand soap, lavender, blue-red flowers and fine tuned, quiet metallic minerals.
Taste: A mid palate of oak, anise, licorice, balsam, fir-needle, actually tiny soap, sourish ripe red fruits, cola, mint, orange peel, a little saline and fine tuned minerals. Texture is sandy, but tannins are still a little heavy and structure is quite slim medium-bodied. Sadly, all is covered in too much new oak. A very promising energetic acidity. Texture is sandy with very dense, fat tannins that build quite a powerful structure, completely weightless though. Alcohol is a little high but doesn’t disturb anything.

The clear impression is flowery bath soap nose, the unusual lavender twist, flower fragrances and new oak. Acidity really needs to calm down further, but unfortunately, they have covered everything in way too much new oak.

90-91p/100

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