2008 Giovanni Rosso, La Serra
This wine really needs a lot of air! After about five hours in the decanter, the somewhat harsh acidity calmed down tremendously.
Colour: Dark ruby red and white edges.
Nose: A foundation of wood glue, oil paint, worn leather, iron, dog rose, fine exotic spices, some menthol, earthy dark minerals, shale stone, distinct balsamic notes with incredibly fresh top notes of fragrant roses, peonies, fir-needle, after some time a little medicinal cabinet and delicate stylish perfumes. Absolutely no disturbing oak notes here. Not a big nose, rather a very delicate, whispering one but very fresh and complex.
Taste: Big spoons of tar, sweet licorice, anise, distinct earthy minerals, gravel dust, a lot of iron, orange peel and very ripe, dark fruit. A very fine energetic acidity in this very young barolo which is promising. It is quite powerful, but structure is kind of slim and weightless. Texture is surprisingly already polished, fine, unclean sandy and tannins are dense and firm, but a little too dry for my taste. There is some resemblance to the great Vigna Rionda in some aspects. Concentration is impressive even though the wine right now has a little volatile envelope. Unfortunately, there is an unpleasant sweet, austere-metallic finish in the end here.
I really like the complex nose, even though quiet, and it will most likely be even better with time I am sure. The wine has a lot of obvious potential in ten years or so, but it does not deliver what the nose promises. The downside is the already somewhat dry tannins, the little sulfa-austere finish and the lack of some complexity. It is really sad considering all the great, ripe fruit in here, great concentration, fine texture and the energetic acidity promising a long life. Costs about €35-45. Open 2018-2030.