Barbaresco at reasonable prices

After overspending on wine for a while Frederik suggested a price focused theme for the evening. Barbaresco at reasonable prices seemed to be an interesting topic, but not as easy as back in the days. Frederik brought a bottle of Pelissero Nubiola, and a bottle of Rio Sordo. Andreas contributed with a bottle of Parroco Barbaresco.

2007 Parroco Barbaresco (San Michele)

A wine from the Gallina and Gaia vineyards in Neive, Barbaresco. The now deceased Don Giuseppe Cogno founded the estate San Michele together with three others in 1973. His brother Achille Cogno and Claudio Cavallo are now running the estate. Totally ecologic vineyards and traditional methods are carried out. We could not find much information about the vinification process but our guess is that this is a Barbaresco made in the modern tradition, but we suspect some use of new barriques because of the softness and already fine tuned tannins. Costs about €28-30.

Frederik:
Nose: Floral top notes, roses, wild red berries, tar, roses, balsamic notes, wedged grass, fresh earthy minerals and leather.
Taste: fennel, boysenberry, wild strawberry, fresh minerals, medium long finish. Already quite silky, soft very approachable tannins and very fine tuned except for the acidity that is still a little harsh and needs to integrate more.
Summary: Good potential and already drinkable, quite long and with generous mid palate and typical terroir characteristics of the site.

92p/100

Andreas:
Nose: Deep and round with both fruit and earthiness. Strawberries, leather and a hint of glue. Classic Nebbiolo.
Taste: Quite acidic and a bit sharp. Balsamic, blueberries and a very discrete hint of oak.
Finish: Medium long finish with soft tannins.
Summary: The nose is very pleasant. This is a very good wine for the price level, and it is definitely drinkable already.

92p/100

2007 Rio Sordo, Barbaresco Produttori del Barbaresco
www.produttoridelbarbaresco.com

Produttori del Barbaresco is a large cooperative which was founded in 1958 and now has 56 members. They produce up to nine single-vineyard Barbarescos, depending on how good the vintage is. The Rio Sardo vineyard usually produces elegant wines with silky tannins. Costs about €38.

Frederik:
Nose: A little smoky, perfume, earthy, some spice.
taste: A little unbalanced, meaty, earthy, dense, quite approachable tannins. Very short, dry and lacks energy.

86p/100

Andreas:
Nose: Surprisingly thin and quite floral. Spices, blueberries and ripen strawberries.

Taste: Red berries and fresh acidity. Quite silky tannins.
Finish: Medium finish driven by acidity.
Summary: The bottle was opened two days in advance, still the nose seemed closed. The wine is elegant for the price level but lacks complexity and personality.

87p/100

2008 Pelissero Nubiola

The Pelissero family has been in the in the business for three generations and has since 1960s produced their own wine. Today Giorgio Pelissero is heading the business and the wines are in a modern style. The grapes in the Nubiola come from six smaller lots. The name Nubiola is the name of the Nebbiolo grape in native piemontese language. Costs about €33.

Andreas:
Nose: Vanilla and oak is dominating. Ripe fruit, leather and quite a lot of depth.
Taste: Well balanced with good acidity.
Finish: Medium long and quite acidic.

Summary: Unfortunately the oak takes over the impression completely. Apart from the oak the wine is deep and fruity and easy to enjoy.
P. 84p/100

Frederik refused to drink the wine but mumbled something about vanilla and some green banana candy in disappointment after putting his nose to the bottle.

Summary of the evening
For the second time in a row oak is, unexpectedly, (again) the theme and discussion of the evening. This time we have a good and a bad example of this. Parroco seems to be able to keep the balance, show individual terroir characteristics and only get the positive effects from the oak. This is a very pleasant wine for the price level and we would definitely recommend it.

The negative surprise of the evening was the Pelissero. A winery which we visited in 2010 and got a positive impression from the wines tasted then. Andreas has also tried the 2007 Nubiola and had a completely different impression.

Frederik did compensate for his disappointing wine by bringing a fantastic piece of entrecôte which was grilled perfectly.

Next time we are considering staying with the Nebbiolo theme, but going more traditional.

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