2004 Roagna Barbaresco Montefico

“Roagna does not change” is the slogan of the estate. Roagna owns 0.24 ha at a quite high altitude in the Montefico vineyard just east of Barbaresco town and borders the somewhat firm, structured Ovello vineyard in the north and the “fruit-silky” Montestefano in the south. It has perfect south-east exposure, the altitude sure gives it a lot of fresh acidity and is known to share the characteristics of the diverse Ovello vineyard but adds more complexity and acidity. The soil is calcareous marl and clay. Roots are about 50 years old here. Maceration is massive and lasts up to incredible 90 days! 4-6 years in casks of which a few are, surprisingly, french and then some time in bottle. Anyway, this is a really interesting producer and one absolutely true to its terroir. 2004 is a great vintage with very easy harvest and in particular in Barbaresco the wines tends to be both very structured with some muscle (not to compare with barolos) and complex, elegant at the same time. Now I have to try the wine..

2004 Roagna Barbaresco “Montefico”

Color is ruby-red color and rust orange edges.

Nose offers resins, glue, roses, dog rose, balsamic notes and offers a fragrant delicate perfume with style.

On the palate, it is somewhat chewy, but not harsh, already quite soft increasing tannins that are not yet integrated. Acidity is a little gnarly now too, but will improve over time of course. After following the wine in about three hours of air in a decanter, a mid palate finally starts to present itself very, very gently showing volatile red current, preserved concentrated raspberry, sourish wild strawberries, some menthol, a little savoury, herbs, tarry, fennel, and with pleasant gentle, fine tuned earthy limestone minerals. Surprisingly light-weighted considering the vintage and the extreme maceration period. Unfortunately, quite reduced and very closed now. It lacks concentration and some energy too, but length is good.

Uh, I hate to write this, but this wine is now a little surprisingly volatile, unbalanced and lacks concentration and energy but at the same time it is delicate, complex and has everything else. The wine obviously needs plenty of time to integrate and is obviously very closed, but now unfortunately, when considering this great vintage and the potential of the vineyard, it is a disappointment. Therefore very hard to give it a score. I guess anyone should forget it another ten years before considering opening it. Cost about €70.

92+p/100.

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