The fleshy 2014 spanish Petalos has amazing freshness

Alvaro Palacio, originally from a famous family in Rioja and famed by his Priorat wines. He has worked at famous Pétrus in Bordeaux. However, this wine is based on the grape mencía from the very north-western of Spain, where he produces the wine of the evening which is ment to be approachable and from old vines. It was invented in collaboration with his nephew Ricardo Perez back in 1998. We are certainly outside of our comfort zone this time, so now let’s taste the wine.


2014 Petalos bierzo, descendientes de J.Palacios

Roasted almond, crème brülée, green banana, natural vanilla, yellow pears desert and a sweet perfume.

It is very fruity, very fleshy and overly meaty. Bitter cherries, cinnamon, savoury notes, bay leaf, and with an abundance of tasty minerals. Impressively balanced, vivid and rich with a little dry, peppery, metallic and persistent final. Above all, the acidity is fantastically clean, fresh and balsamic.

This is not our style, but In a blind tasting, despite the fleshiness, I could still have been thinking a blend of hermitage and beaujolais. Most likely, better in 3-4 years. (tasted 15/10-2016)



A neutral terroir-focused 2012 Bordeaux that impresses

We don’t focus on wines of Bordeaux, but this producer, Château Le Puy, is interesting and caught our attention when it was offered recently at a wine bar (l’Enoteca) in Malmö, Sweden.

This producer works dynamically and uses no sulphur or pesticides and have never done so. They use no new wood at all as they want real terroir in their wines and they conduct extraction by the ultra traditional submerged caps method. Wow, we are hooked. A blend of 85% merlot, 1% carmènére and the rest cabernet sauvignon.

Scissored from the producer’s website:

“To be a winemaker you need to be observant, curious, imaginative, hard-working, thick-skinned, meticulous, passionate about nature and about life and filled with respect for your fellow man. A winemaker must be artistic in his methods, bold in his thinking, enthusiastic yet reflective, passionate yet patient, pragmatic yet imaginative, efficient yet generous. Being a winemaker is about communicating directly with wine lovers, showing them the very best of yourself through the medium of wine. ” – Jean-Pierre Amoreau

Yes, this might be one of the best description of the art of making wine, but how does the wine taste?..


2012 Château Le Puy “Emilien”

Distinct nose of tidy barnyard, undervegetation, horse back, muddy gravel, dried raisins and figs. The typical pen lead, gravel, undervegetation, black olives and black currants wrapped in metallic and saline minerals. Texture is dense and just a little hefty now with tannins that need more time still. Otherwise, very crisp and balanced already. A rich, well structured wine with a lot of honest character (true terroir) and dry sensation in the persistent finish. (tasted 5/8-2016)


California – New country, new experiences

Approximately two weeks ago I and my family moved from Sweden to California (Berkeley) where we will be staying for six months. After that we will spend another two months traveling along the coast, and among other things, visit wine regions like Oregon and Washington State.

Until now my knowledge about wines from the US have been limited and to be completely honest my impression has been slightly negative due to experiences with extremely fruit driven wines with high alcohol levels. I am fully aware of that it is not fair to discard such a large wine region based on a few experiences and I also know that there are some exciting developments and recent trends moving towards more refined and terroir focused wines in the US. Therefore I have decided to focus only on wines from the US while staying here.

I am very excited about what I will discover the coming 8 months. I will try and take part in as many wine tastings as possible and I will visit many producers.

If you have any suggestions of producers to visits or wines to try, please do not hesitate and let me know.

The search for the best producers and wines from the US begins now!

2012 Cathiard impresses again in Aux Malconsorts



We simply love the precision and quality that Sébastien and his father Sylwain succeeds to deliver in every vintage regardless of how difficult it may be.

2012 Vosne-Romanée 1er cru Aux Malconsorts, Sylwain Cathiard

The classic popcorn, distinct orange-peel, Vosne spices, ginger and intense violets and subtle roses. The clean bluish-red and creamy fruit is wrapped in layers of vibrating minerals and orange-peel. It is more forward, denser and opulent than usual, but still with that remarkable precision and finesse as always.  A very generous, rich and persistent wine that still should be kept for a few years more to the let the thick tannins ripen even more. (Tasted 5/8-2016)


The 2006 pride of Paolo Scavino

We have met with the lovely Elisa Scavino a few times along the years and they have evolved in a fantastic direction by cutting down on new oak and keeping up their meticulous work set up by her great father, Enrico.


2006 Barolo “Bric dël Fiasc”, Paolo Scavino

Colour is half-half transparent of red cerise core with glowingly blood orange outer parts.

Obvious oak notes still in here even after 10 years and I remember that they turned down this quite a bit back in 2008 which was a great decision. A very much boosted perfume of raspberry candy sweets, blossoming roses and minerals in here still. Be sure to let the wine stay in a decanter for about two hours to let its inner terroir slip through. As always, it is fresh and elegant with its personal deep minerals and clove-coated red fruit. However, tannins are not anywhere near finished. I guess that you have to wait as late as 2022 for this one to integrate fully.


Another really good red from etna

A month ago another interesting etna rosso appeared at the Swedish monoploy and yesterday we tasted it. It is built upon 80% nerello mascalese and the rest is mainly nerello cappuccio but also Alicante from the northern slopes of the volcano and more precisely in the contrada (vineyard area) Moganazzi at 750 m above sea level. Amazingly, some vines here are as old as 150! Soil is sandy with lava and highly mineral. The producer I Custodi let 20% whole bunches go into the crusher and raises the grape juice in used barriques. We keep being fascinated by the wines from mount Etna and they way they mix Burgundy with Barolo, but more importantly their very own intriguing terroir of complex minerals.


2009 I Custodi, DOC Etna Rosso “Aetneus”

The core is dense and glowing of scarlet and cerise colour with light pink-cerise edge.

The nose first emerges with “Burgundish popcorn” which is a notion of skillful use of wood with light toasting. After another two hours, it is full of lavishly and beautiful roses, a lovely perfume, clove and spice cumin. It is pliant, soft and rich, but foremost it is super crisp and fresh. Very generous wine full of very complex minerals that appear to be wrapped in oil paint in a way that partly reminds me of a young Bartolo Mascarello. In addition, spices, dry blood orange and really cool, clean red fruit; mainly notes of ripe strawberries, mull berries and cranberries. Elegant and quite persistent too. This underrated wine leans more to a Barolo in terms of aromas and nose, but texture is a middle road. Even though it is approachable now, its tannins needs to settle even more so a guess is to wait with opening this until 2019.


Crisp and fresh 2013 Gevrey-Chambertin village from Groffier

A third whole bunches were put into the fermentor for this wine and it was raised in 25% new, lightly toasted wood.


2013 Gevrey-Chambertin “Les Seuvrées”, Robert Groffier

A lovely but slow and subtle perfume of crushed stone, some morning dew, dry herbs, and most notably of all, underbrush. Texture is somewhat edgy, but it is the fresh, clean and saline acidity that stands out wrapping highly concentrated and slightly bitter fruit (mainly red currant, lingonberries and cranberries) stones, savoury notes, notes of pears and dry honey. The extra stems add structure and backbone in a very good way and it is quite persistent too. Could probably improve some in 4-5 years.


Foillard makes a really good Morgon in 2014 too!

We continue to follow Jean Foillard in Beaujolais. And this for good reason as he appears to get better and better. This time it is the 2014 vintage that was recently released at the monopole in Sweden. With his friends in the “Gang of 4”, he continues to achieve the most fresh gamay fruit with terroir by using maceration carbonique with insane low levels of sulphur and raises his wines in neutral wood. And this from vines of which some are 100 years old. Foillard’s Fleurie 2010 was tasted here. ..and his 2009 cuvée Pi and the normal 2012 was tasted here.

dsc047462014 Beaujoilais Morgon “Côte du Py”, Jean Foillard

An intense scent with a base of marzipan and synthetic glue. Top notes of coriander, violets and blueberry-raspberry jam. This describes well the forward and concentrated fruit in here too. In addition, Asian spices, minerals and newly cut fresh ginger. It has just a little of the trendy and funky natural style, but very little and totally forgiving as the balance, the crisp acidity, chewy texture and generosity dominates in a great way. As always a very honest expression of impressively clean and fresh fruits with complexity.


A fresh, price-worthy and elegant crozes-hermitage

David Reynaud at domaine les Bruyères works biodynamically, uses gravity and extraction is done in concrete. The 2014 crozes-hermitage Les Croix from old vines was recently released in Sweden.

dsc047492014 Crozes-Hermitage Les Croix, David Reynard (domaine les Bruyères)

A very pretty perfume of red fruit, violets and roses as top notes and plenty of bay leaves, Mediterranean herbs and savoury notes at the bottom. Unexpectedly easy tripping and elegantly walking beauty with medium body, clean fruit and very crisp acidity. Fine balance, generous and very price-worthy wine driven by minerality with velvety texture, but this wine might be even better in a few years more.


The two 2010 Pajés from Roagna are a velvet glove

After having tasted the 2010 langhe rosso and the marvelous 2010 Pira vecchie viti we simply had to evaluate the two pajés; the normal and the vecchie viti. The latter is twice as expensive from vines on average 60 years old and minimum 50, whereas the normal’s vines are between 25-50 years old. As usual extraction using the traditional sub-merged caps method is hefty with 2 months for the normal and another half month for the vecchie viti. This tasting was half blind to make it more interesting.


2010 Roagna Pajé


Intense but rather slim nose with pure red berries, lemon peel and some herbal notes. Cool and almost electric acidity combined with silky but still grippy tannins. Herbal notes, blueberries, raspberries, slight cherry notes, orange peel and some rather surprising hints of sherry in the background. Mouthwatering and precise finish.

At he moment the acidity is slightly dominant but this will definitely calm down with time. Energetic and intense wine.


Sir Galahad:

Dense nose. Very slow scent of rose petals, beeswax and inner perfume. Concentrated, juicy, cool black- and red fruit in balance with crisp, vivid and balsamic acidity wrapping orange-peel and beeswax. Aromas of anise seeds, Asian spices and savoury notes. Velvety texture with chewy tannins with grip. Medium bodied and generous. The clean persistent finish lacks just some precision compared to its pricier counterpart, but compensates this well with freshness and approachable balance.


2010 Roagna Pajé vecchie viti


Dense and compact nose with intense notes of oil paint, ripe (almost jammy) strawberries, blueberries and some roses. Soft but still fresh acidity with some citric notes in the finish. Ripe strawberries, leather, blueberries and orange peel on the palate. Tannins are grippy but fine grained.

This wine has a truly amazing nose but the palate needs more time to integrate. When it is ready we have a very complete and complex wine with great personality.


Sir Galahad:

Dense nose here too but just a little more depth and much more intense. An amazing nose of grace that is vibrating and compelling. As expected, a little more precision here and depth, but currently more tight and things are not in place yet, but it broods on something special. More concentration and power in here and a little more jammy and currently somewhat smudgier fruit. Acidity is great and crisp with razor-sharp precision. First mostly dark fruit and cherries, but after some hours anise seeds, earthy strawberries, dark plums and notes of blueberries appear. This will need plenty of time to come around. An unpolished diamond. A guess is in 2025.



For early drinking in the coming 5-6 years, the normal pajé is recommended as we both agree that it is more approachable and balanced now. For the long term, the vecchie viti is absolutely a notch up on the nose. On the palate, it is not so big a difference, but vecchie viti lurks on more precision, structure and concentration.